Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hills motorsport fit these and do a really good job from what i hear. Think round 1600 fitted and tuned.

Ive got a link at home to a review from 1 of the zoom mags with all the decent ecu's layed out. EMS should be releasing the '8866' soon, which shits on the stinger and every other ecu (from what the review shows), for only 600 more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4551-ems-stinger/#findComment-71367
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

First thing - Performance - 189 rwkw with the Stinger, Cool box, FMIC, large cat back (unknown exhaust) 13 psi.

The car drives smooth, the problem I had before was not knowing when the car was going to go well or just bog down. She was 154 rwkw at 13 psi before the Stinger.

The stinger set up pulls strong with no noticeable drop in power through the rev range. I'm up on power, and the car is more driveable.

Mark spent a lot of time on the car to get it right and this shows in the way she drives. I had an MBE system in the UK, more load points, but really stinger is just as smooth. The Stinger replaces the injection / ignition rather than the piggy back set-up like the S-AFC. The standard ECU is still there to support the rest of the cars functions. The software is PC based and easy to use, just a modem cable and your up. Works with kpa not PSI, but that’s only a small thing.

Cost well Mark puts these in including set-up etc for $1600. That’s a good price compared to a power FC, and isn't too bad considering it is a better set-up than a S-AFC.

The air flow meter is thrown away as MAP is used, so one less thing to go wrong, plus no BOV issues with stalling.

I'm on the track on Tuesday, I'll update based on how she goes under a lot of load.

So far Happy, no very happy !!!

Julian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4551-ems-stinger/#findComment-92515
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Just to be clear, there were no lights or codes when the hiccups were occurring. Also nothing noticeable in the cars' braking. It brakes fine and the dash is clear. I only made the connection when it did throw a code and suddenly, despite the lights, it felt great again. 
    • Yeah they are sliders and this was in my head before I worked out it was the speed sensor.
    • Ok so we have a smoking gun.  A few weeks ago I had to replace a speed sensor that I'd fit incorrectly. I replaced the sensor and everything was fine with no lights or codes thrown any longer.  When I was doing some more bedding in yesterday I got ABS and traction control lights again and, considering when this happens those things are disabled, the pedal went back to normal with smooth braking and no hiccups.  The codes thrown are for the same speed sensor that I replaced. When I looked at the sensor I took out it looks like the tip of the sensor is damaged. So whatever happened to it, perhaps it has damaged the magnetic ring on the bearing (that I only replaced the other week). I'll get my boroscope in the hole where the sensor goes and see if there is any damage in there. Hopefully just the tip of the sensor is in there and the bearing is fine. 🤞🏻  It's worth noting also that the pedal hiccup happens more often and for longer periods now and totally goes away when the codes are thrown again which happens usually after 5 or so minutes of driving. Love all your help here as usual guys, thanks!
    • Could you put a real seat and harness in instead of what looks like leaving your passenger balancing on a milk crate
×
×
  • Create New...