Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello SAU

I have an idea. It seems pretty simple, but as all simple things, its complex in nature.

I have a vl calais turbo and i want to change the internals of the dash with the GTR skyline dash internals to make the vl a 300km/h and 9'000rpm dash. Now the difficult part is that i want to use the same face of the VL dash and get it re-numbered to match the factory style look (but obviuosly with the skyline numbers) and to get the needles tuned to the same ratio of the new gauges. (i hope that makes sense)

So i need to find out a few things:

The specifications for the electrical signals from the rpm and speed signal for the two cars (or at least the skyline one - while im here)

And to see if they are then compatible

I have tried to do a search on here but the main things i am findiing is the wiring diagrams and so forth, not the actual signal specs and so forth.

Now before the comments start coming in about why not go aftermarket - well everyone has that!

I appreciate any help given.

Regards - Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456009-complex-speedo-and-tacho-question/
Share on other sites

Why bother with factory internals - if you are going to change the dial face anyways? You cant "tune" the sensitivity and response of the air core driver. To do that you need to build your own like I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455121-tachometer-fix/

Moreso, it would be beneficial to look into microcontrollers in order to bend the signal to calibrate it to the dial face. Otherwise you will probably end up with inaccuracy at either the low or high end of the dial.

If you want to make something custom, you are going to need flexibility.

Jiffo - sorry i should have mentioned this.

I will be using a 26/30 engine with the normal MX7 gearbox from the vl turbo.

I did have a long troll around the interweb and find out some things i needed to know. I stumbled upon a dude from NZ that made an rpm signal converter for a vl. If i understood it correctly it changes the gtr 5 volt 6 pulse rpm signal to a single pulse 12 volt signal. Or maybe the other way around, i dont have the web page open in front of me right now.

There was also another dude called Grant that used to work in Sixworks in Newcastle who made some kit for this kind of thing, but that forum info was from 2003 :( i have sent the guy an e-mail but not heard anything yet.

The reason i want the thing to look factory is just because of personal taste. I want something unique and not just normal autometer guages in a box

zoomzoom - your dash looks pretty neat. i like what you've done. Once again, while surfing the web i found out that you can also recalibrate the vl speedo to 240km/h (its no 300 but its something different) I will post up the links i have found when i get home today and see what you guys think about them.

I do appreciate the response. thought provoking.

http://www.gweeds.net/RBModule/rbmodule.html

here is the link...

here is the face, its something like what im thinking of...

whitedash.jpg
The beauty of printing your own dials means you can do what you want with them here are some pictures of the prints I used
speedo.jpg rev.jpg
I surrounded the gauges with carbon fibre stick on film. The GSR of course stands for Guido Seevens Racing. The Speedo has been roughly recalibrated so that it matches with the speedo drive out of the Nissan gearbox (My 100k is where a standard commodores 80k is) And the top end brought up from 200 to 240. The rev counter has been extended to 9 grand (tho the motor is limited at 6800rpm). The whole lot was printed on high quality white paper with a colour photocopier. The paper was then stuck to 0.5mm thick white Polystryrene sheet behind which I stuck 2 layers of blue cellophane so that the dash has a blue glow at night. This is to be replaced by Electro Luminescent sheet which will give it the Indiglo type effect. The gauges will then be printed on transparencies. The satellite switches and boost gauge have been illuminated with blue LED's

So you'll be using the VL speedo and tacho, just with a different fascia?

Speedo would be working at present?

VL tacho will work from the Rb25/30 ecu with the 10c pull-up resistor circuit.

One of my boys chopped up his dash to fit a boost gauge. Was a long time ago now.

Car was actually a VB but with VL interior and Rb20.

post-73571-0-39691600-1429869092_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-99942500-1429869277_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-71969600-1429869347_thumb.jpg

Hey Jiffo

Yes the speedo works at present. as does the tacho.

I don't imagine it makes a difference that its an 26/30 not 25/30 - the ecu pins should be the same.

your mate has a nice setup there.

the fascia will be different. My original question was, whether its possible to have a different internal mechanisms behind the fascia (ie. 300km/h from gtr nismo dash). However through some lucky surfing and finding out some info from some friends it seems that maybe that doesn't even need to be done.

When you say internal mechanism, do you mean just the circuitry? The air core dial itself shouldn't need to be changed if it has sin+ sin- cos+ cos- connections. Its just that whatever combination of dial angle and frequency will differ between circuits.

When you say internal mechanism, do you mean just the circuitry? The air core dial itself shouldn't need to be changed if it has sin+ sin- cos+ cos- connections. Its just that whatever combination of dial angle and frequency will differ between circuits.

As i am not very knowledgeable in the circuitry of the internal dash components and i am not claiming that i know exactly how they work :), i can only attempt to describe what i mean. I will do this with the best paint skillz that i have. I hope this helps to explain 2 things. 1) that i am a moron that doesnt understand dash circuitry and 2) that the thing im wondering is if you can change is, the thing behind the fascia (which controls the speedo pin/dail).

j14l20.jpg

Righto. Well I think you're referring to the air core gauge. Think of it like a motor. The angle of the motor for a given frequency is determined by the circuitry, and that is where I think you need to be concerned. The air core mechanism itself shouldn't need to be replaced, and will save you time and fabrication.

For example, my tacho stopped working, but it was the circuitry and the ECU signal. There's not much to break in the gauge itself, its just copper windings. I built a new gauge driver circuit, plugged it into the existing gauge and it works again.

Thanks zoomzoom ;)

very helpful and informative. I will look into it some more at a later point. There are plenty of things that i can do in the mean time :) but i get what your saying with respect to the air core gauge :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out of curiosity, how do you cover up the inspection hole? Surely it doesn't sit open like that, right? With grime and dirt coming in and oil going out?
    • Hi from Canada, Both of my calipers are starting to fail. My car is a 2005 M35 Stagea ARX and I can't seem to find any parts or any cross reference caliper that would fit my car. Is there a company or a similar caliper that would fit and I could replace the OEM one. Or if anyone knows where I can find a new OEM. Any help is very appreciated. Let me know!
    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...