Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

I am currently rebuilding a R34 GTT gearbox that has a problem getting stuck in 4th gear and unable to down shift from 5th to 3rd even if you rev match (block out condition). Sometimes you have to jerk the shifter to get it to pop out of 4th, but funny enough, all the gears goes in like butter even on full song.

All the gears can be selected in/out with the car running, clutch-in whilst on the brakes (i.e. the main shaft not rotating) indicating that it is not clutch drag related.

Information on previous rebuild:

  • New bearings and synchros

  • 3rd/4th synchro key popped out, one was found in the drain plug

Inspections on tear down during current rebuild:

  • Input shaft end play was checked and within specs

  • Countershaft end play was checked and within specs

  • Synchro gap and grab was checked and within specs (all gears)

  • Synchro teeth condition was good (all gears)

  • 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th synchro keys and spring was in place

  • All bearing condition was good

  • All shift forks had slight wear on where the brass lining were but as expected. No cracks.

  • It was found that 3rd/4th synchro hub and the slider felt loose and was able to rock when assembled compared to the 1st/2nd synchro hub

As all the issues are apparent in the 3rd/4th cluster, an educated assumption is that when the 3rd/4th synchro key popped out as per previous rebuild due to play in the hub and slider, more kilometres gave it additional wear that made it so severe that the engaging the slider caused it to be twisted off centre and jam into place, unable to get out of 4th. Is the above a reasonable conclusion to the problem?

       

TIA

       

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...