Jump to content
SAU Community

Wolf 3d V4?

slayer

By slayer,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

slayer Collaborator

slayer

Posted
Posted

Anyone had any experience with the new Wolf 3d V4?

The guys at Per4Manz here in Perth swear they can get better results, quicker and significantly cheaper than a PowerFC based solution with this setup.

The unit has inbuilt boost control, MAP sensor, thermal compensation, closed loop support, full realtime mapping and good PC software etc..

Anyone used one of these systems, or even the older V3?

Any info would be appreciated.

Conrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4812-wolf-3d-v4/
Share on other sites
rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by slayer

Anyone had any experience with the new Wolf 3d V4?

The guys at Per4Manz here in Perth swear they can get better results, quicker and significantly cheaper than a PowerFC based solution with this setup.

The unit has inbuilt boost control, MAP sensor, thermal compensation, closed loop support, full realtime mapping and good PC software etc..

Conrad

The old wolf systems were ok.

I would not believe that with a hand-controller and PFC for $1600odd is going to be more expensive to setup than a new Wolf, considering the extra labour cost involved with the re-wiring needed on the wolf (PFC bolts straight in).

As far as quicker to setup, again if we start timing from the opening of the 'box' ,no way. Then again if you aren't much chop tuning the PFC the wolf could be faster once plugged in.

Better results ? Yes the wolf has more customisable MAPs, in theory you can get greater tuning resolution out of it. However I think the PFC has twice as many points as are necessary to get a decent tune. IF you use every single point you will spend alot of dyno time money. Another thing worth considering is the retention of the AFM, its a good thing on a road car. The response of the AFM is superior to a MAP sensor and will show itself in the fuel ecconomy and bottom end response.

Also the boost control option on the wolf (like a number of other systems) is pretty crap, you should consider an EBC even if you end up getting it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4812-wolf-3d-v4/#findComment-74604
Share on other sites
b2barker Enthusiast

b2barker

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by rev210

Another thing worth considering is the retention of the AFM, its a good thing on a road car. The response of the AFM is superior to a MAP sensor and will show itself in the fuel ecconomy and bottom end response.

Got some more info on this rev210? I always though MAP was better than AFM because it didn't restrict air flow (and you can BOV to atmo if you are into that sort of thing).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4812-wolf-3d-v4/#findComment-74817
Share on other sites
slayer Collaborator

slayer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm interesting - there is so many opinions as to which is better for a daily driver out there, I dont know who to believe...

The arguments for the Wolf included that is has closed loop support so it provides good off-boost fuel economy and throttle response.

The other point the tuner raised was the inability to accurately (or quickly) tune the PFC due to the handset programming..he suggested a number of engines around town had been fried due to the dyno time required to dial in a PFC correctly.

I really dont know which way to go on this - the Wolf can be fitted with boost control and dyno time for $1600, using a baseline map they have developed previously on their own R33, the PFC SECOND HAND is $1600 PLUS boost controller option seperate, and then dyno time.

Plus it supports temperature compensation and other niceties, which the PFC doesnt fully.

I like the fact the Wolf 3d support deceleration fueling (the Link in my WRX didnt and you almost bounced off the windscreen when coming off the throttle) which goes some way to smoothing oout the driving experience.

As far as MAP sensors.. I thought this was the preferred option - or is it only preferred for pure power output, and not the street drivability??

I am in Perth, so the tuning options are limited - Per4Manz seem to have a good rep as far as tuning, but I know I can use Brett from PSI Performance with the PFC too..

The PFC is the preferred option by most R33 owners, I guess there is reasoning behind this.

Anyone in Perth got either systems fitted that can take me for a spin to get a feel for the drivability?

Conrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4812-wolf-3d-v4/#findComment-74973
Share on other sites
whistla Proficient

whistla

Posted
Posted

iv got the Wolf3D version4 Plug in and Play for the R33 GTSt

couldnt be more happier, paid $1600 including hand controller..thats also including some extra tuning from base map

has a heap of features many which pFC dont support

unfortunantly, im in melbourne...feel free to PM me any questions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4812-wolf-3d-v4/#findComment-75088
Share on other sites
rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

The Wolf and the PFC aren't the only systems out there.

The e-manage gives both a run for the money, the cost is about the same as the Wolf (PC or E-01 controller tune). The E-01 is a fantastic boost cont its own.

Nengun is the place to buy the Greddy e-manage and E-01 from at the best price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4812-wolf-3d-v4/#findComment-75162
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...