Jump to content
SAU Community

Transgo Shift kit RE5R05A (HD-2 - for a 370GT coupe *** Yes, I have read all the old posts***


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have had a v35 for nearly 5 years and recently sold for a v36 coupe upgrade.

I have purchased the shift kit and am waiting for it's arrival.

My query is around finding a place/person in Melbourne to install for me.

All the old forums on this are 10yrs or so old so I don't want to msg those individuals who may not even like these cars anymore haha.

I have obviously called around some shops out west where I live but haven't gotten very far/they all want to see it and I'm struggling to even get a quote...

Thanks all,

Feel free to email me even if you know a place/have done it/can do it etc etc on [email protected]

Thank you for the replies gents, which shop is that Vee37? I have tried Hoppers Transmissions and Diffs and Techtrans to no avail. I'm hoping to find a shop that has maybe done it before.

Thanks for the reminder Paul, I'm tossing up between Matic J or S, but I am pretty sure from reading Matic S fluid is newer.

I have read a lot of US forums/g37 forums BUT I have seen old posts on here from like 2012 where guys in Melb were offering prices, hoping they'll reach out to me if they still do them.

On 8/28/2022 at 3:55 PM, Sammo V35 said:

Thank you for the replies gents, which shop is that Vee37? I have tried Hoppers Transmissions and Diffs and Techtrans to no avail. I'm hoping to find a shop that has maybe done it before.

Thanks for the reminder Paul, I'm tossing up between Matic J or S, but I am pretty sure from reading Matic S fluid is newer.

I have read a lot of US forums/g37 forums BUT I have seen old posts on here from like 2012 where guys in Melb were offering prices, hoping they'll reach out to me if they still do them.

I was ltalking about the previous post, referring to estimates in the US.

On 8/25/2022 at 5:48 PM, V35_Paul said:

on the US forums they say it takes a shop 4 hours.

ask their hourly rate.

Plus fluids too 👍 

 

On 8/28/2022 at 3:55 PM, Sammo V35 said:

I'm tossing up between Matic J or S, but I am pretty sure from reading Matic S fluid is newer.

Matic S is a lower viscosity fluid, if the manual specifies J, make sure it will happily run on the lower viscosity S before you use it.

  • Like 1

Sonicii - I have read on many forums that Matic S replaced J? Is this not true, I found a shop that can do it but they say in their quote they won't use nissan special oil (i,e matic S/J), do you know much about these trans and if that will be ok?

 

On 9/1/2022 at 2:55 PM, Sammo V35 said:

Sonicii - I have read on many forums that Matic S replaced J? Is this not true

Not exactly.  Matic S is a newer fluid.  Many Transmissions that specified J before S came out, can happily run on S, but they are not the same fluids (same with NS2/NS3 with Nissan FWD CVTs).  For example, my Infiniti specifies Matic S for the transmission, but Matic J for the transfer case as it requires a higher viscosity fluid.

Sorry, I don't know with any certainty if the RE5 can happily run on Matic S, plenty of forums and web pages say it can..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...