Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys I have an R32 GTR ('89) – and I have been having problems with the aid con not working properly. From time to time it just shuts off and starts heating for a few minuets- and then seems to sort t self out and start to work again ???

it seems to kast longer if I set the temp to 18

If I do the self diag test, I get the mysterious PBR error ?

I've had it re-gased and presure tested - OK !!

Anyone know someone in Brisbane that can FIX this for me b4 summer starts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48741-gtr-mechanic-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

Out of interest, do you know anyone with a 32 GTR you can pinch the A/C control out of and swap over? Be very cheap and easy to fix then, just grab a new (read: second hand) A/C control and your right. No labour charges, etc.

Just a thought, dont really know anyone in brisbane I'd trust with a gtr :(

Had my aircon fixed just recently at Brisbane Tuning & Turbo at Woolloongabba 3393 1588. I think they use the radiator - aircon guys across the road, but all is now good. Something to do with a pipe that tends to deteriorate in the skylines. Sounds as though your prob may be slightly different, but they should be able to help.

Guest Variable

You could also try Sterling Auto Electrics at Montpelier St Bowen Hills 3216-0907. They just rebuilt my compressor and also repaired the control unit. They were the authorised repairer for the warranty on my car. Speak to Roger. I gave him the AC section of the R32 GTR workshop manual as a reference as well so he shouldn't have any problems.

How much did it cost Robocop to rebuild the air con compressor? I'm up for one of them as well. Being told from different places to just get a new one or recondition the old one. I've got two. My original one borked so I bought a second hand one and the same thing happened within like 2 months.

Can somebody post up or have a thread with all the contact details for our sponsers , as I need someone to hook up my Profec B , and I have found out I have a nice little leak in my zaugst manifold , so that needs to be replaced and the manifold machined to stop it happening again !

P.s does any one have a 33 gadge cluster , mine is fruited !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...