Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Anyone out there encountered (and solved) the following problem;-

I have a late R32 GT-R equipped with a HKS EVC 2 boost controller. I've owned it for a while now and after fitting a microtech LTX12 and tuning it makes 260rwkW on around 17psi, so it's obviously pretty healthy mechanically.

Problem is though, the power surges in 3rd or higher under moderate to heavy acceleration, annoyingly, making the car feel far slower than 460hp, when boost is controlled by the EVC (not, though, when the EVC is in 'off' [green or 'monitor'] mode, and boost at standard wastgate actuated levels). It would probably do it in 1st and 2nd gear too, but you tend to not stay in them for long when you're up it for rent.

I assume that this is caused by the solenoid in the EVC not pulsing the boost signal properly to the wastgate actuators. I do have the manual [$20 for a piss-poor copy; thanks BDS's- not] and have followed every setup/trouble shooting step;-

*Wastgate type is set correctly

*Unit has been calibrated as per instructions, twice (could it be any more tedious)

*Everything seems connected properly, as far as I can tell

*The filters to the solenoid unit are dead clean

*The unit is in the same place, but replacing, the factory solenoid (so heat shouldn't be a problem)

*Even tried setting the unit up with learning function cancelled, in 'manual' mode

I went back to BD4's and Paul had a fiddle, mentioning some stuff about base settings, offset, overboost and all that (didn't want to road test though). Anyway, I made the recomended changes and initially it seemed to work, but I, obviously, couldn't really give it any stick around Gladesville in 3rd gear. When I got out onto the freeways, I still had the same problem. None of the "Experts" seem to know or care how to fix it ("Hey, how 'bout we supply and install and SooperBoost Y2K for ya"), like most of you, I've already spent a packet on the car and would just like to solve something with out shelling out cubic dollars for once. Any help will be gratefully received.

Cheers,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52928-boost-problems/
Share on other sites

how do you know its boost control that is making the power surge, Is the boost fluctuating up to 17psi?

if so at what revs, whats happening. need to know more than power is surging.

I would firstly test all the mencanical aspects of the boost control system first.

this being the actulators and waste gates. just run a hose from the plenum to the actulators with out anything T'd into it. this will give the lowest boost posible but there will be nothing to cause a surge with fluctuating boost levels.

if the power is on-off when run like that then its not the hks evc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52928-boost-problems/#findComment-1040782
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...