Jump to content
SAU Community

my sub moves around

martydaman

By martydaman,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

martydaman Mentor

martydaman

Posted
Posted

got my pioneer 12" installed and works perfectly. amp bolted on the box and all wires are hidden. Only problem is the my boot is huge (obviously not a skyline boot) and every time a corner is taken too fast it slides around like a monkey on ice.

What is the best way to mount my sub box so it doesnt move?

ive considered velcro or even fixing little brackets to the rear wall.

whats my best option?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53721-my-sub-moves-around/
Share on other sites
martydaman Mentor

martydaman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my boot is completely carpeted and so is the box. I thought that having carpet on both would create enough friction to stop it but i was sadly mistaken, no big deal coz i decided to bolt it to the rear wall.

How it will go:

1. Going to Buninngs and getting 2 L-shaped shelf brackets (small)

2. drill holes in the box and the rear wall (appears to be possible as it is made of metal)

3. Using rivets i want to rivet the brackets to the rear wall as getting bolts to the other side of the wall might pose as a problem

3. bolt everything together nicely so the box hugs the rear wall giving me optimum boot space

what do you think?

martydaman Mentor

martydaman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

kool thnx guys... i agree the velcro wouldnt work coz of the carpet on both surfaces but it'd also be damaging to the carpet wouldnt it? coz the carpet isnt stuckdown in the boot and would probably end and moving the carpet with the box anyway.

Are there any issues with drilling 2 5mm holes in the rear wall, behind the seats?

Bax Rising Star

Bax

Posted
Posted

If you could get the Velcro secured to the carpet and rear shelf where your going to mount the brackets too theres no reason why it wouldn't hold. Velcro's amazingly strong stuff.

Would even cut back on some of the rattles between wood/ metal If the joins weren't tight enough.

If you don't want to drill into your car, velcro is a way to go.

Any issues, well I can't see any, but then again I don't own a skyline, take out the rear seat and have a look whats in the way very carefully before you do drill though.

In my vl I've screwed it from behind the seat into the box itself, holds nicely. Also have my earth in a similar spot, with a washer in between the screw/ squashing the wires up to the metal.

I'd still say velcro, pretty neat and a bit easier to add/remove.

martydaman Mentor

martydaman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol... getting conflicting opinions now... i still think that bolting it down is the best idea but velcro might end up being the option if bolting encounters a problem.

The piece of wood idea would work but not too flashy. I put a cricket bat (dunno where i got it) in the boot to stop it moving and does the job but not very professional :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...