Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm going to change the diff and the auto gearbox oil in the next few days and i'm just wondering what other ppl have used or think what would be better. I've decided to go with RedLine products as i dont mind spending a lil bit extra for the quality.

At the moment i'm thinking heavy shockproof for the diff and i haven't decided which one for the gearbox. I'm thinking between the Hi Temp ATF and the Racing ATF.

Hi Temp would give me smoother gear changes than the Racing one but for the better shift performance i'm probably leaning towards the Racing ATF.

They say that the Racing one doesn't have any sliping additives so i'm not sure if it would be recommended for the R32 automatic gearbox.

Help please!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54114-which-redline-oil/
Share on other sites

Use lightweight shockproof in the diff. The heavy stuff is too thick.

As for ATF, just stick with the Synthetic D4 ATF. The Hi Temp stuff isnt really worth payin extra for unless you want piece of mind. The Racing ATF will most likely prematurely wear out your clutch packs because it is not Dexron III approved.

I went with Heavy shockproof for the diff and its fine. I was told if i get any clanking noise from the diff to come back and they'll put some slipping additive to fix the problem - but there was no need for that.

As for the Auto gearbox, i haven't done it yet. I haven't had time and i'm still undecided on what to use. I was gonna go with Hi Temp for the piece of mind or Racing oil for that extra oomph but not sure of the side effects.

Has anyone used any of them???

I used lightweight shockproof in my diff and it seems to have fixed the occasional one wheel spin I was getting.

I also put Redline High Temp ATF in the auto and it sharpened the shifting a little but not heaps because I didn't have the pump you need to get the fluid out of the torque converter.

I think I'll go for Racing ATF next time but I want to make sure I've got some cash in reserve before I do it just in case. There's not many people know about R34 auto boxes.

I just got of the phone with one of the guys from Australan Distributors for RedLine Oils and he put a whole new spin on the situation.

His opinion is that more slipping in the automatic gearbox will give you a smoother ride BUT it also increases the gearbox wear.

He strongly recommends the Racing ATF, with no slipping additives, for the better shift response and loger life of the gearbox as long as i don't mind the jerk between the gear changes, which would feel like a manual driven car.

This is a 180 degree spin around from what i was thinking.

His name is John.

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTORS – Red Line Oils Pty Ltd, Ph: 1300 88 1213 Email: [email protected]

Any thoughts on this?

Thats an interesting find. Maybe hes right, but I dont really like the idea of putting non specified fluids into something expensive like an auto tranny. His analogy is sorta like slipping a clutch. Slip and ride a clutch like 17 yo n00b in a festiva, then the clutch wont last. I suppose you can try the Racing ATF and check the shifting, but I reckon the HiTemp or D4 stuff is still the way to go personally...

I spoke to that guy too but I wish I had some other knowledge. Wait... doh! My dad is a mechanic...

ok just called him.

He said it would make sense that the Racing ATF with no slipperiness additives would produce less wear of your bands and such. If anything it might put more stress on your planetary gear set but due to their design they are unlikely to be a weak point. If you know how they work you will understand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...