Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ....

i had this problem for two days now ...

the boost is only 4 psi ... !! its some times reach 5 psi ..

it happend twice befor ... but it was for 5-10 minutes and then it gos ...without shuting down the car .. !!

now its there for two days ... i donno ... :hellpisd:

any help plzzz !!

i did ecu check ..(55) every thing is ok .. (just in case)

mods .. pod , exust and splitfire coil packs with iridium ix plugs ... only

car: 1998 R34 GTT

helpppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54851-4-psi-only/
Share on other sites

yesterday i checked the solenoid ... its dead i think .. any way .. i'v changed it with small valve i made .. to give 7-8 psi and it works perfect .. (temprory) tell i find new solenoid valve ...

by the way .. the r34 actuator opens the weastgate at 4 psi .. the valve i made bleeds some air out ..and reduce the pressure on the actuator (if any body intrested .. i can post some pic )

fazt-r33 : ... as rhett said ... on the stock gauge its normal to show 3-4 ... any way check u'r solenoid valve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54851-4-psi-only/#findComment-1073979
Share on other sites

thax omran... but is i normal to show the same after 4500rpm... i thoug ist meant to hit 7 on the stock gauge.......

also i got a stage 3 hydrid boost controller... with solonoid and all the works.. jst can frekn figure it out.. the diagrams are to shtty and 2 general......

apexi bov for sale.... ne1 interested... 2nd hand with the gtst adaptor... fits 32,33 & 34... interested...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54851-4-psi-only/#findComment-1074121
Share on other sites

but is i normal to show the same after 4500rpm... i thoug ist meant to hit 7 on the stock gauge.......

QUOTE]

If it hits 7x100mmHg on the stock gauge that means you are running about 14-15psi i think, or close to double the stock boost. You know, there are different units for pressure around, psi is just a more common unit. bar is probably used second most.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54851-4-psi-only/#findComment-1075800
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...