Jump to content
SAU Community

Issue when starting r33

CroatianDlite
 Share

Recommended Posts

CroatianDlite Collaborator

CroatianDlite

Posted
Posted

Hey

I got an on going issue when starting up my r33. no matter when, type of weather, or if the car is warm or not, 9/10 there will be a heavy smell of raw fuel coming from ... somewhere ... it last for about mayb 5 secs or a little bit more. i havent figured out where its coming from, cuaz its soo strong. but there are no leaks and after a quick inspection on the hoist, cant seem to see any cracks underneath near the tank, or in the engine bay, OR signs of leaking.

i was wondering ( of course ) if anyone knows what could be the problem here...

also is the neck that goes from the fuel cap to the tank (that brass coloured part) meant to be loos? i can easly pull it off!

anyways, please ask questions if need be... (btw - no mods, pretty standard, exhuast, and yeah lol)

thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites
CroatianDlite Collaborator

CroatianDlite

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ive changed the o2 sensor and that weekend i got 200km from half a tank... then it went crap again max 250km on a tank

recently replaced air filter with a K&N filter getting up to an extra 100 km driving normal.

next thing i guess is the coolant temp sensor! hehe...

but yeah recently, i can smell it constantly... like each time i start.

like i said once every 10 times it doesnt smell... but its soo overpowering it cant be normal! haha!

people are scared to light up a cigarette near my car! lol (which is a good thing...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
CroatianDlite Collaborator

CroatianDlite

Posted
  • Author
Posted
200km to a tank!?

Do you boost it everywhere you go or something...

i wish. i used to struggle to get to 250, driving at a max of 3K rpm every gear! it was painful trying to figure out how far i could get without going over that.

500km... u lucky bastard. thats all i can say!

i reckon thta fuel smell has something to do with it.. like evaporation from somewhere

i dont mind putting te fuel in each week.. its the fact that if i go for a drive i have to plan the drive so i know i wont be pushing my car to the nearest full station! and it really annoing. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

I think you will find that it leaks from the filler neck or the fuel cap .

After you been driving for a while especialy on a hot , warm day , take the cap off if there is no hissing sound it means that it leaks .

A lot of imports leak from the filler neck because the put them in here and they don't glue them in promply so they are not 100% airtight .

To fix it you have to take the filler neck out and reglue it but first make sure the cap doesn't leak .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I used to get 500km's to a tank with the rb20t am still with the RB30DET.

Sure I'm not on boost with the RB30DET as I've wired the wastegate open but i'm sure as hell giving it stick every where. :D

I would look at the engine temp sensor & also the O2 sensor but first as WRXhoon suggested.. Make sure the petrol tank isn't letting vapours out and wasting fuel. :)

250km's to a tank. That would be very very depressing. :D

My old VS 5ltr Commodore after its cam etc used to still be able to nudge 400km's to a tank. (it was a larger tank though).

I sold it because it was heavy on fuel and sloooow.. ;)

lol.. Had a nice note though... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites
croat Mentor

croat

Posted
Posted

CroatianDlite i have the same deal, the brass piece that the fuel caps screws into is loose! I hear that they are only there for compliance and are not needed in japan? I was thinking of using glue to seal it but not sure f its a good idea... Anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sleepergm
      Max horse power stock internals?

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      And yes would be going to tomei Japan for sure as it’s closer to me … 
    • Sleepergm
      Max horse power stock internals?

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Yeah I heard the same. Might be hard to order one. But then I guess can go to hks or go to a more expensive n1 block with tomei. Guess will jump the hurdle once I get there next upgrade around. I can’t get work done in the states as the lead time will take for ever on top of shipping to Hong Kong. 
    • joshuaho96
      Max horse power stock internals?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/en-us/products/nissan-rb26-cast-blocks This is the solution I was thinking of. I would stay away from Tomei USA, their quality is a question mark to me. If you want an engine machined in the US contact Club DSPORT: https://clubdsport.com/ Tomei JP is probably fine but I recall they stopped doing pre-assembled short or long blocks. In general it's pretty tough to get any kind of RB26 block at the moment with Nissan so severely backordered.
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo front and back LSD

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      PAR specifically offers stock ratios in their gearset and you could do whatever ratios are physically possible supposedly for no extra cost. I agree 6 ratios is better than 5, the factory 2nd gear is equivalent to the Getrag 2nd gear if you account for the differing final drive ratio though. The Getrag 3rd gear with a 3.916 final drive is equivalent to a 1.6 2nd gear in the FS5R30A. I'm about to swap the transmission out on my car, I'm tempted to send the one I have now out for rebuild with the standard "cross ratio" gearsets out there to see if it really makes such a big difference the next time I pull the transmission.
    • Sleepergm
      Max horse power stock internals?

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      This is what I was looking at next:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/engines/tomei/tomei-rb26-28l-short-block-assemblies-p-45479.html as we can’t bore the cylinders out in hk so better just buy the whole lot in one and install then retune. Everyone saying the weak link are the bolts holding the rods together. I already did valve springs, arp head bolts, hks racing coils, nismo fuel pumps and pressure regulators, injectors etc for the top of the engine. 
×
×
  • Create New...