Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got a new alarm system for my car, but I need th cash asap.

Will sell for $500 (including freight to anywhere in aus) as i paid amost $1000 for it. Need to sell urgently.

Never been used still in the box.

2-Way Remote Start and Security System

The first FCC-legal 2-Way Remote with 66-Bit Clone-Safe Code-Hopping

Full featured vehicle protection and starts your engine with the push of a button

Confirms all commands with easy-to-understand icons with text

Alerts you to security system alarm events by beeping or vibrating when the system is triggered

Lets you keep track of vehicle status

State-of-the-Art Remote Transceiver with Responder Technology:

Optimum Range and Reliability

Bright, Easy-to-Read LCD Screen

Vibrate Mode

23 Different Icon/Text Message

Super bright blue LED light

Belt clip for remote

Remote Start* Features:

Remote Start Convenience

Safety Shut Down

Timer Mode

Complete Engine Monitoring

Anti-Grind

Engine Checking

High-Capacity Relay Satellite

Tach/Voltage Checking

Security Features:

High-Output Mini Neo Siren

Failsafe® Starter Kill

Forced Passive Arming

Active/Passive Arming

Progressive Door Trigger

DoubleGuard® Shock Sensor

Clone-Safe® Super Code Hopping 266 Codes

Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry (NPC)

LED Status Indicator

Ignition Controlled Door Locks

Soft Chirp

Secondary Warning Zone

Remote Controlled Valet® Mode

Bitwriter® Compatible

Parking Light Flash

Clone-Safe

PM me if you are interested or call me on 0401554476

The cheapest I could find them on the net for was $797... Here

Cheers.

Greg

If you look down at "similiar threads" you sill see some1 selling the same alarm at $700, and some1 else selling a shitter viper alarm at $600..

$500 is an absolute bargain..

Some1 buy it please..

I can also get additional modules if you need, like microwave sensors, digital tilt sensors, EL lights, etc. etc. all at cheap prices if you get this alarm.

Thanks..

Greg

Just let me know mate...

ITEM CAN BE SENT VIA C.O.D

Item will be sent out by express post, as I never have time during the days to get down to the post office...

Will send out by express post free of charge as I have heaps of sachets sitting here..

also does the remote start work on a manual car? any idea on price of install. and how many point imobilliser does it have? thanks

Im located in the Western susburbs, and the remote start will work on a manual car.

Dont quote me on this but I've been told it has a 3 point immobiliser.

Install price is about $100 - $200 depending on where you are getting it done..

Cheers.

Greg

can u find out bout the immobiliser for me. because i heard it was a 1 pt. immobiliser and is price neg.?

I couldnt find exact specs on the immobiliser, but it seems that every1 is telling me its 3 point, at the least its 2 point... can some1 else tell us? any1 know?

I am slightly negotiable on the price...

I need the following and will accept as part payment:

T25 turbo in good condition

Turbo timer

BOV

Boost gauge (preferably autometer)

etc. etc.

Also need a U11 exhaust manifold..

Cheers.

Greg

Or car audio stuff i need also.

do u neeed an 1000watt 4 channel boss amp?

I need the following and will accept as part payment:

T25 turbo in good condition

Turbo timer

BOV

Boost gauge (preferably autometer)

etc. etc.

Also need a U11 exhaust manifold..

Cheers.

Greg

Or car audio stuff i need also.

if u find out bout how mnay immobiliser it is i can help u out if it's right for me...but i'll wanna a garantee about how many it has

cheers, mark

My dad had a look at it as hes an electrician and said from what he can tell its a 2 point immobiliser..

Can any1 else confirm this?

i need to get a that garanteed on how many it has...don't wanna get caught out with a 1 point. if it's got 2 or 3 then we can work somethin out

Best thing to do is give autobarn a call they sell this model for $899 or $999 fitted.

Get the specs off them, and any other sales info you want to know coz im no sales man, just trying to get rid of my alarm..

Cheers.

Greg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...