Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i got a question on what happens when your timing is too far advanced or too far retarded. the car in question is a ford laser, 1.6l sohc.

Im unable to accuratle set the timing on the engine, becuase the timing marks are stuffed and im unable to replace them.

what i wanna know is what symptoms is there when you adjust you timing too far forward or back. apart from "blowing up the engine"

what happened is, i adjusted the timing forward. the car ran mint and pulled all the way through redline. anyways, i was going down this hill and for the last couple 100 meter i used the engine to slow down, as soon as i made to the bottom of the hill the head gasket blew between cylinders 2 and 3. wa this a result of too far advanced timng?

i fixed it and retarded the timing , now the car has no tourqe at all, it barley makes it to 4000 (no pont going above) and when im cruising at e.g 100kph the engine pulls forwrd then it feels like it surges, and keeps doing it. also, when im braking using the engine, the exhaust constantly makes a popping noise. is this the result of too far retarded timing?

i know these engines inside out, but this has me stumped. the timing belt is on perfect, as well as the plugs and leads etc.

any help would be appricated.

thanks

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62526-timing-questions/
Share on other sites

You can check timing using a test light if it is a points distributor ignition.

Also another way you could do it is by ear.

Race the engine to about 2 grand and turn the distributor very slowly from its origin left and right. I cannot stress enough that it must be done slowly and very small amounts.

Also be VERY careful you don't go too far and if you do, keep your head away from the throttle body coz it will backfire. Try to keep it within it's limits.

You should be able to hear the engine it will bog down if it is too retarded and it will ping slightly if too far advanced. Whichever way you should be able to get the extremes on both sides of perfect. Just set it somewhere in between those points.

Also you could get piston 1 on compression stroke at top dead centre and mark the crank pulley with some whiteout where the needle points. Then with the timing light you can get a fair indication of where the timing is. Usually about 1 cm from that point will be around 7 - 10 degrees. Advanced will increase the idle. Retarded will decrease it. Also make sure that if it is EFI you don't have to have a check connector earthed or something like that. Usually it'll be a little black box with diagnosis or something similar written on it. If it is electronic ignition you'll find that it will have that setup.

For info on the points test light method you'll have to pm me. I don't want to explain it unless I have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62526-timing-questions/#findComment-1178988
Share on other sites

Sorry I almost forgot.

The head gasket thing will usually occur on an ineffective flame front which causes pitting on the metal ring on the head gasket which seals the bore. This pitting eventually wears through that ring and causes the gasket to blow.

I would have to see the gasket or a very high quality photo to tell you why it blew.

This is not the only reason why they blow of course but is a common one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62526-timing-questions/#findComment-1179001
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...