Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Boys and girls,

I sold my R33 about six months ago to raise some funds for an apartment I have since purchased.

I brought a cheaper car (liberty RS turbo) for 8.5k and whilst it was a fast reliable little unit I got so much shit from everyone including my girlfriend that I slowly started to resent the fact that I ever brought it.

"Grandad's car with a turbo" was the most common (and hurtful) comment I heard. Anyway I found a liberty nut that wanted the car so badly that he offered my 11k without a RWC which was 2.5k more than I paid for the car in the first place. At the same time I found an R32 M-Spec owner that was guiniunely going to live overseas and not just saying it to attract more buyers.

With these two events happening simultainously I managed to sell the Libery and by the R32 for a bargain price of 11k with plenty of mods and in unbelievable condition.

So the moral of the story is that if you ever think about selling your car to raise funds for something and buying another run-about car look at all other options because theres nothing more painful than handing over the keys to some happy new purchaser.

PS- The R32 came with a massive front mount that is yet to be fitted so if you know a place in Melb that does piping then let me know.

PS- The R32 came with a massive front mount that is yet to be fitted so if you know a place in Melb that does piping then let me know.

Check out a place called Technic Tuning. Sorry, I dont have their details or anything. They specialize in turbo's especially Skylines. They should be able to do the piping for the front mount because they made the 3" pipe for my catback exhaust.

hahaha good work!! at least u got one of the better looking skylines unlike ur other one :(

as for piping... check with newkon (desmond) in the victrader area... he has complete cooler kits for 600-700 delivered... so without the cooler and just piping and silicon hosing u might wanna see what prices he has

Thanks guys- Yeah I know Mark from Technic, great guys especially for Apexi SAFC tuning but big dollars and long waits for work to be done! or so I have heard.

There was a fair bit of audio equipment that came with the car like a new Kenwood sub, 6x9's and amp that I don't need. Check out the "For Sale Section" if your interested because I'm unloading it all dirt cheap. Still in the boxes but I pulled my system out of the R33 when I sold it and I don't need all this other stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...