Jump to content
SAU Community

r33 gts quick sale

MR R33

By MR R33,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

MR R33 Experienced

MR R33

Posted
Posted

hi

1993 white r33 non turbo 5 speed manual

104 000km, which is low compared to some of the other ive seen, and also genuine.

got a bigger muffler which gives it that deep sound, i was going to do a full exhaust but it gives it a weird sound, the way ive done it gives it the more of a skyline sound that you hear, i still got the stok muffler anyway.

k and Pod filter which gives a bit more power and throttle response.

17in lenso rims with new continental tyres, looks very smik.

red brake callipers

type m front bar

the interior is in perfect condition except for a little wear and tear on the drivers seat.

the exterior is very clean, paint in perfect condition, little stone chips and little dent on passenger door, its been there ever since ive had it but it doesnt bother me, it can be removed if you want.

about a year ago i replaced the clutch with a extra heavy duty excedy clutch and rebuilt the gearbox, the gearbox wasnt nessecary, but casue it was apart i might as well have doen it.

i always take good care of it as it is my first car and i am also a car detailer, so i always wash and clean it with the best products, it is also serviced regulary.

i can guarantee you that you will not find one in the same condition, i spent a very long time looking for this one, and the previous owner was an older guy which also took good care of it.

i am looking for around 14k but make an offer cause i wanna see what the market value is on them. i am located near parramatta.

i was planning on doin a turbo conversion on it, i got all the parts, casue i was talking to the mechanic and he said to keep it and convert casue it looks in really good condition, but i will sell it if i can get the right price for it, otherwise i will just keep it and convert it, casue i know it will be hard to find another really good condition r33.

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64697-r33-gts-quick-sale/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...