Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

VAPE you are a legend man!

finally someone put up a detailled view of it :ermm: ...

so it works fine and holds boost constant?

Cheers mate,

-JD

PS:

Your hose looks like its not fully secure.. actually it looks like its not even under the metal tie...

post-27154-1144053125.jpg

Edited by JD-33
VAPE you are a legend man!

finally someone put up a detailled view of it :yes: ...

so it works fine and holds boost constant?

Cheers mate,

-JD

PS:

Your hose looks like its not fully secure.. actually it looks like its not even under the metal tie...

Thanks JD.

Holy crap, i didnt realise that hose was not secured haha. maybe that is why my hicas light is on lol.

I got so confused about eveyone's directions on that controller, even the picture that was sent with the unit in the mail didnt make sense to me. People seems to put it in different ways. So I tried the manual version, and nothing happened, less boost and nothing when i turned the screw. then did it another way and it was overboosting like mad, so i had to unscrew coz i crapped myself thinking it would break somehting lol.

Anyway, thanks for pointing that out!

Vape

Thanks JD.

Holy crap, i didnt realise that hose was not secured haha. maybe that is why my hicas light is on lol.

Anyway, thanks for pointing that out!

Vape

That "unsecured hose" is just a protective sleeve for your power steering line. What you have is normal and is nothing to worry about.

if any one can help my freind want's to know if you need two of these to run a 300zxtt.

If so how will it be needed to be tee'd.

the reason i ask is because he is so impressed with my jrdsports mbc they have a special of bulk buy and he want's to get some boost running through his mildly worked 300

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

hey guys can anyone help me out? bought one of these, installed it on my 33, if i run anymore than 8psi boost it splutter, misses and carrys on between 4000rmp n 6000 rpm. i got some free dyno time (only kw reading, couldnt ajust ecu) the other day and had a play n the best rwkw figure i could get was only running 7.8psi boost! do i need to get on a dyno that can adjust my computer (timing, air fuel? also why do u thionk my car can only run low boost wen i hear of other people on here being able to run 10-11-12psi on the same car and not have any worries!

thanks 4 the help!

cheers

brett

Mark,

Transaction made via internet banking. Reference number quoted...

Cheers....

Did he reply back to you, i have been trying to get a response from him since last week, through here and through eBay. I would like to purchase it through here but i do need one soon.

I dont care i would order one through ebay if i really had to but if he cant reply to my messages, how is he gonna send the item if i hit "Buy It Now".

I would like a reply just for acknowledgement at least.

hey guys can anyone help me out? bought one of these, installed it on my 33, if i run anymore than 8psi boost it splutter, misses and carrys on between 4000rmp n 6000 rpm. i got some free dyno time (only kw reading, couldnt ajust ecu) the other day and had a play n the best rwkw figure i could get was only running 7.8psi boost! do i need to get on a dyno that can adjust my computer (timing, air fuel? also why do u thionk my car can only run low boost wen i hear of other people on here being able to run 10-11-12psi on the same car and not have any worries!

thanks 4 the help!

cheers

brett

try gapping you plugs to .7 or .6 and see if the miss disappears.

I suspect the miss is coil pack related from the symptoms you have described.

Hey guys just put this on my wrx with 181@ wheels on 16 psi, my old controller shit itself couldnt create no more boost. put this on and it totaly kicked its ass, hits 17psi by 3200 in 4th gear and holds it perfect there. im so glad i got this instead of something else... Took me about 1 minute to put it on and about 30 secs to adjust and i was soo happy with this product best 42 dollars i ever spent.

just got mine ine the mail! cheers buddy ill shove it in the weekend and see how it goes. took aa bit over a week to arrive but it says next day delivery lol. Dont really care as long as it gets here looks pretty good. thanks a lot to vape looks easier now

man just installed it, couldnt wait :) warmed up the car then stopped shoved it in on the side of a 70 road then checked what boost...it was a little bit "infinite" for my liking i had wound it out as far as possible and was expecting less than stock. turns out i used the wrong hose and after i figured it out (no net on the roads edge) it pulled to the mark between +7 and 0 on my stock r33 boost gauge.. in 2nd at like 2000rpm! kicks in hard used to sorta build over a second now its just bang. im not one to go over 3-4k rpm so im very happy with the result.

on r33 gtst, it is the two LARGEST DIAMETER hoses that are connected to the controller, everything else you can block or remove. Stock solenoid is taken out of the loop by removing the t piece and its small hose and plugging the other hose with a screw or similar. use the existing clips to hold the hoses to the controller and shazam u pull like a v8. a big v8.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
×
×
  • Create New...