Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just purshased a set of whiteline pineapples to fit to my GTR to try and stop a noisy subframe bush but it turns out it didn't work . There really no use to me and where only bought for that one reason . If someone wants to give me $70 for them I'll pull them out and there yours I paid $110 from UAS on saturday and there only been in the car for 50km's.

cheers

Brett

email [email protected]

or private message

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73676-fs-white-line-pineapples/
Share on other sites

The pineapples don't actually replace the bush concerned.

I have noticed my subframe bushes in front of the wheels leaking what looks like silicon, tinny little drops on the ground.

Apparently the only options I have are Genuine Nissan Items or the Solid Alloy Bushes.

I'm not too keen on the solid jobbies as they may transmit vibrations and harshness to the ride. :rofl: But they are cheap.

I don't really get a creek but more of a clunk every now and again.

On the dyno I noticed the wheel really pulling in, closer inspection showed quite a bit of movement in the subframe.

I been around the world twice chasing this nloise problem :D changed and tried everything so narrowed it down to the subframe bushes two of them are leaking . It's big expensive job to replace them I think I am just going to live with it becuase it's not all that bad .

7heavn,

That was my initial thought also.. "Its not that bad I'll leave it."

UNTIL... I saw the car on the dyno and watched the back wheel twist in towards the inside and towards the front of the guard. :Paranoid:

I haven't priced up the Nissan bushes yet, that will be the determining factor if I go the solid alloy bushes

The solid alloy bushes are here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...591#post1110591

Maxx is a good bloke. He said I can fit them up and see if I like them. :D

Obviously helps going to Uni with him. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
    • Mate , this is the current mods list Current Mods list (Installed) RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes ECUTEK tune form TuneHouse in Sydney .(Just over 2k) The car came with HKS - Power Editor but I had it removed for the full tune. I would say if you are using the car for street diving a proper tune would be better.    
×
×
  • Create New...