Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What is the name of the government body who handles this?

i have no idea how anything to do with importing works so i'd appreciate some help.

scenario is-

1)importing from USA

2)car is not a grey import (not susceptable to compliancing right?)

who do i have to get authority from and what and how and when and why etc etc

Thanks in advance

ps. please don't whore in this thread 'cause i'll just delete yo' a55.

...and no naked pics of yourself please Dave :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7376-importing-a-vehicle/
Share on other sites

DAMMIT!!! No nudie pics.

DOTARS (Department of Transport & Regional Services) are the governing body you will have to talk to for importing a vehicle.

As the car will mosty likely be more than 15 years old (just a guess Mustang boy) you shouldn't have any problems getting Import Approval.

http://www.dotars.gov.au/

The RTA has their requirements on the website with regard to registration. The important document for them is the FORS Import Approval.

If it's older than 30 years you can keep it Left Hand Drive as well. No sticker required on the back, no insurance hassles etc.

doh

i got this from the dotars wesite

"To be eligible for a personal import the following criteria must be satisfied:

a) the vehicle has been owned and used by the applicant for a continuous period of at least 12 months (3 months where ownership and use of the vehicle commenced before 8 May 2000).....

....The following documents must be provided to establish ownership and use of the vehicle overseas for twelve consecutive months, or more:

every page of your passport including all blank pages · statement of travel

purchase documents · overseas registration documents in your name "

so that means i can't import it unless i've owned it for 12 months. can anyone confirm this for me? or am i missing something?

No, that is for vehicles under 15 years old. If it's over 15years old, all you will need is the FORS import approval and when it arrives , just the basic roadworthy and possible RH drive engineer certification.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...