Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Leaking....

Haysey
 Share

Recommended Posts

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

Last night driving home i pretty much had no clutch... stopped and found no fluid.....

filled it up an pumped it for 10 mins and it came back.. thismorning looked in footwell and there is fluid leaking all the way down the pedal from the small black thing that surrounds the rod... if you get what i mean...

Now ive searched threads and stuff and couldnt find a clean answer...

what do i need to fix/replace regarding this leak... is it as simple as a couple of seals or do i need a whole new master cylinder?

New or reconditioned?

Brake and clutch specailist??

And finally how much is this going to set me back??

Thanks

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75077-clutch-leaking/
Share on other sites
Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

beautiful.... nice and simple.. i was getting confused if it was a seal or something or a whole new thing... i take it jap spares place is the best bet? as normal places wouldnt have a clue???

thanks for quick response

ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75077-clutch-leaking/#findComment-1377708
Share on other sites
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
yeah hi i have that same problem with my r32 you can buy seal kits for them but if you dont really know what your doing your best off just buying second hand

?

As far as im aware, they put in a new oversize cylinder, along with new seals. This costs about $270 from memory, but you need to wait for it to be done, then have the master cylinder put back in.

Or, do as i said, go buy a $70 new one. Two bolts inside the engine bay on the cylinder, and one clip on top of the clutch pedal. Not a hard task at all.

Never replace something worn out with second hand sheit. Asking for more trouble later....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75077-clutch-leaking/#findComment-1377833
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...