Jump to content
SAU Community

Importing Yourself

25det
 Share

Recommended Posts

25det Enthusiast

25det

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone here has ever imported themself, what hassles are involved, and whether or not its actually worth it in then end.

I am thinking about upgrading to a R34 GT-T or maybe GT-V (think thats the 4dr turbo), but cant seem to find many later model 4drs around for sale. Most are 98 model autos.

The costs i am aware of are (please correct if i am wrong):

prices all approx

Freight - $1200

Duty tax - 10%

Customs - $500

GST - 10%

Compliance - $3500

Stamp Duty - 2%

Tyres - Depends

Another consideration is paying a broker to sort out the paperwork (about $1000).

Any info of this topic is appreciated thanx.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75261-importing-yourself/
Share on other sites
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone here has ever imported themself, what hassles are involved, and whether or not its actually worth it in then end.

I am thinking about upgrading to a R34 GT-T or maybe GT-V (think thats the 4dr turbo), but cant seem to find many later model 4drs around for sale. Most are 98 model autos.

The costs i am aware of are (please correct if i am wrong):

prices all approx

Freight -  $1200

Duty tax - 10%

Customs - $500

GST - 10%

Compliance - $3500

Stamp Duty - 2%

Tyres - Depends

Another consideration is paying a broker to sort out the paperwork (about $1000).

Any info of this topic is appreciated thanx.

I did this a few months ago

Purchase price + about 80,000-100,000 jpy to de-rego , store and transport the car to the docks in japan .

+10% import duty on all the above

+ about 1800 -2000 aud for freight , customs and q/t .

+ 10% gst on all the above .

+ LCT ( in your case you won't have to pay it )

Thats your landed price .

Allow $4000 minimum for compliance and import approval ( for r34 ) + brakes if needed + removal of any mods .

Then all you have to pay is rego costs ( rego , ctp , number plates and stamp duty )

Stamp duty in nsw is 3% for the first $46 k and 5% for anything above that

You will pay stamp duty on any car you buy , new or used , local or import so thats not an extra expense .

If you need more info p.m if you like , i can put you in touch with a person in Japan , he will find a car for you bid at auction and do all the work to export it , there is no need to pay an agent in Aus $1000 .

  • 4 weeks later...
oRiCLe Rising Star

oRiCLe

Posted
Posted

Yeah man, i reakon it is worth it, my new toy lands tomorrow, have had no hassles whatsoever with customs or anything like that...cheaper than getting the equivalent over here! but i did get in under the 15 year rule so compliance for me is cheaper...still, should be worthwile for you too!

mine left on the 28th may, gets here tomorrow, nice and fast, only thing i found expensive was the cost of containers at the moment as I diddn't want to stick it on RORO, but yeah, other than that very happy with the results so far...

I went over to japan and found the car myself then got my exporter client over there to stick it in a container for me, sent a customs broker the paperwork over here and voila! it gets here tomorrow, no hassles :rofl: oh, and as far as i have been told by the broker, as long as you can stick it in a buisness name, it is easy to get a broker here and you get a discount on the fees or something over doing it in your name...

only other costly part i can think of is the compliance when it gets here and if you wanted an agent in japan to find the car you want, but by the look of it, that topic has been covered by wrxhoon above...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      f**king around with the bro
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
×
×
  • Create New...