Jump to content
SAU Community

fuse rating for fuel pump?

PHATR32

By PHATR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
Your on a dreamboat. The highest i could get out of the stocker was 420rwhp with same injectors as you and same computer. Same as everyone else 400-440 seems to be the limit of a good stock healthy pump .

BUT what regulator were you running at the time.(after market or std)

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
Im running a HKS regulator but is running very low base fuel pressure 30psi.

Well that my be the difference as i run a std reg and i remember a thread some time ago which i think sydneykid show bench test of different fuel pump and the gtr std pump was right up there but if you increase the pressure it start to really loose the volume it could flow (if the pressure goes up the total fuel flow went down quiet a bit ) i believe this is why i still run quiet high duty cycle times on 700cc for the hp i make as the fuel pressure is std.

Sydneykid had a great chart of different fuel pumps.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Make sure you use equal gauge wire to the ground as well. Make it a positive trigger relay(I know it sounds trivial but I worked on a 520 rwhp WRX today running two 044 and the system run a negative trigger relay with a tiny ground cable and the entire fuel system including braided lines was active as it was doing the grounding-very scary as we saw sparks as we were putting the c16 in). The bosch 044 pump is rated at 30amps peak but usually they usually only run 12-17 amps from memory. So a 30 amp fuse should be sufficient.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

pnblight is on the ball.

As pressure increases flow drops off. You will always get more HP out of a pump if you run larger injectors rather than run the smaller items and try to squeeze that little bit more out of them with an increase of fuel pressure.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
Well i played with the fuel pressure on the dyno and it helped slightly but that was it. I have some standard regs i can try but i dont think its going to make a difference.

it was only a suggestion as mine has never failed me ,not that i have tried get as much as i could out of it ,i just never needed to upgrade yet but i'm sure down the road somewhere i will. Sydneykid even did some calculation from the bench test results he had and the flow rate from the std pump was there for the hp i'm running(the thread was back some months ago)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Original window sticker?

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...