Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Summary:

1996 R33 Skyline GTS- T Series II Special Edition M - SPEC Model

Dark Black (Rare Dark Black)

2.5 litre Twin-Cam Single-Turbo 24-Valve

4 wheel ABS brakes, vented discs, ABS. Climate Control, 4 Wheel Steering

Twim Airbags.

Brand New 18" ANZ Chrome Rims with Falken Rubber

Nissan Alarm + Jaycar Security System

Modifications:

Brand New Garret T28 High - Flow Turbo Installed.. Only a couple months old.

Power + Drivetrain

Apexi AVCR 2 Boost Controller Only 1 week old bought brand new!!

Hybrid GT Spec Intercooler Kit With all Chrome Piping Installed.

Apexi SAFC 2 Bought Brand New.

Apexi Power Intake Pod Filter.

Apexi Dumpipe Installed.

Aftermarket Strut Brace.

Trust Racing Style Gear Knob.

Full Custom 3" Exhaust System from turbo back with HKS Muffler.

Super Low King Springs Installed.

Nismo Front Bar and Skirts.

GTR Rear Spoiler.

History of the Car:

This car is a rare private import with full Australian compliance. I bought this car from a older bloke a couple months ago only done 8,000kms since i bought it off him in which he sourced this car personally in Japan and it was purchased in standard form from Auction with a Grade of 5 and one previous owner. The owner bought the car about a 2 yrs ago for $33,000 Reciept to prove it. All servicing in Japan was performed at Nissan Prince Saitama and Nismo Oomori Factory. Servicing in Australia has been primarily performed by N1 Service Factory, Westell Rd, and Ice Performance, Cheltenham. Receipts can be shown for servicing. The car has always been maintained maticulously and those who have seen the car can vouch for it. There is no need to perform any servicing or maintenance on the car and it is ready to go. Mechanical checks are welcome. I can personally guarantee this is one of the best example late model GTST in Australia.

Specs:

Standard GTST Specs here:

www.fullboost.com.au/R33gtst

Additional Series 2 Specs:

ABS Braking System comes factory with the M-Spec Model.

Two Wheel Steering at the Rear over 80km/h

Phillips HID Lights.

Nismo Front Lip and Side Skirts.

Passenger and Driver Airbag.

Stiffened Body Shell

Upgraded synchros on dash.

Maintenance Of the Vehicle :

Fluids and Wearables

Motul 300V Engine Oil

Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid

Nissan Genuine Oil Filter

Nissan Genuine Fuel Filter

Motul Gearbox Oil

NGK Iridium Spark Plugs

Endless Street Brake Pads (Front)

RaceBrakes RB25 Brake Pads (Rear)

Falken Sports Rubber Tyres 18/8" all round.

Serviced Every 5000kms with Papers to Prove.

In Car:

(89 000 km showing on M - Spec Model dash)

Nismo/Trust Shift Knob

Optima Yellow Top Battery

JVC Head Unit

Full Jaycar System Set up inside the Car.

Massive Kenwood 12'Subwoofer and two Amps in Boot.

Jaycar Splits

Jaycar Rear Speakers and Subs on Partial Shelf.

Execellent Show Car System.

Performance

201rwkw @ wheels on Dyno Dynamics

Pics will be attached ASAP.

$24000

Negotiable

Melbourne

Prefer Contact on 0421 661 991 or Email Me.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...