Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I installed my mechanical boost gauge and am running it off the factory BOV line, is that ok or should I move it somewhere else?? The only reason I ran it there was that was all the T piece would fit.

Also installed a turbosmart bleed valve between the inlet pipe and wastegate and just having it there turned down made the car splutter really bad at high revs.

I have noticed though that on my car the bottom hose on the solenoid has been zip tied to the top hose, the bottom hose is ot connected to anything, Looking at pictures the bottom hose is supposed to hook into the pipe that goes from the inlet to wastegate right??

The bleed valve had been on once before i got the car and it had a T peice in it with small hose that was the same size as the one on the solenoid, if I hook this back up will my car run better?? Will it actually make more boost with the bleed valve fitted as atm it doesnt seem any faster and 2nd gear just dies pretty much, all gears seem slow to respond to throttle!!

I need help! Please!! I have tried searching but cant find what I need to know!! Im sure there are plenty of clued up people online??!! Will buy them a beer at the first club meet I get to!! Pity Im 3 hours from Melb!!

Hook the bleed valve up to the 2 hoses going to the boost solenoid. 1 side goes to your inlet manifold and the other to the wastegate. just leave the solenoid out of the system. Should not need to worry about the t-piece for this.

I hooked my boost gauge up to the factory line which is in the back left corner of the engine bay looking from the front. It is tapped off the intake plenum, I just wacked in a t-piece.

The best place to run the boost guage line from is the line that runs the standard boost guage. It is located in the top drivers side corner of the engine bay. You will see a hose that runs from a little box on the firewall to the rear of the inlet manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...