Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls,

Have a few things for sale:

HKS SSQV Bov and R32/R33 Adaptor

Used, but in Excellent Condition.

Very popular blow-off valve, comes with an R32/R33 adaptor already on it.

Selling for $280

Turbosmart Dual-Stage Boost Controller - FG-GBCV-DS

Used, but in excellent condition

This unit provides fast boost response with two adjustable boost levels. Just toggle between high and low on the fly. Ideal for replacing factory boost controllers. Low and high boost settings are adjustable.

Comes with rocket launcher switch and mounting hardware.

Selling for $160 (RRP $299)

Autometer Sport Comp 2 5/8" Boost Gauge(Black Face) - AU3401

Good Condition

Vac./Press 30 In. Hg.-Vac/20 PSI

Includes 1/8 & 1/4 NPT fittings and 6 ft. nylon tubing.

Pic: http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/images/...eter/AU3401.jpg

Selling for $60 ono

Go Fast Bits Atomic Boost Controller (Manual) - GFB3001

Brand new in box, Blue in colour.

Single stage, under bonnet adjustment.

Includes allen key and hose.

Pic: http://www.gofastbits.com.au/index.php?par...b_option=atomic

Selling for $60 ono

Standard R32/R33 Plumb-back Blow off Valve

Used and in good condition.

Selling due to new BOV.

Selling for $50 ono

Logitech Quickcam Express

Brand new, never used.

Video capture resolutions: up to 640 x 480 pixels

Image size: up to 640 x 480 pixels

Interface: USB

Sensor type: CMOS

Selling for $40 ono

Location: Canberra, buyer pays postage.

Thanks,

Nath

Edited by NathR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83955-bovs-boost-controllers-gauges/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...