Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont know about costs, but the way exstatic mentioned is better. If you turbo a RB25de, you will never get the same power as if you dropped in a rb25det due to compression etc.

Squizz from qld did it in his rb20de just using an rb20det head , manifold , turbo etc.. He said he did it for around $1000, and that was fairly cheap. You would be looking at around $3500 I would think to drop in a rb25det.

dave

Originally posted by ex-static

Probably be a better idea to do what doxx did.. he bought a half cut and dropped a whole rb25det into his car..

well he will do.

damn right i will do it!

yeah mash i think its better getting the halfcut, thats if u wanna stick with auto and u can find an auto gtst halfcut. and you also get front breaks, shocks that u can sell, dash and some other cool nifties ;)

if u wanna go manual, ask meggala he had an auto single spinning r32 gts, he done a full gtst manual conversion with lsd and all and the car is damn cool

depends on the situation we are in now with these lovely lovely import laws ;) theres things like by the time u sell ur car the new laws will be in so it will be more expensive thn just doing the conversion, or if u buy off someone from here it might be expensive because they either know of the new laws coming in or they are asking for a bit more money

i mean there are very nice examples down here but they might be hard to find

buy ex-tatics car, its leet! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...