Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am planning on heading up for this. Does anyone have details on how to find the raceway from Heathcote?

Also does anyone have details of the format of the event, times etc. I am planning on heading up on Saturday morning but have no idea what time it starts/finishes etc.

Anyone want to meetup and drive up together?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/853-heathcote-raceway-mario-gtr700/
Share on other sites

I just found some details at:

http://www.pacperformance.com.au/heathcotejune02.htm

This is a two day event to be held at Heathcote Park Raceway Victoria on the 21st-22nd June 2002 proudly sponsored by Turbosmart. This event is open to all 4 , 6, rotaries. For all accommodation bookings for the weekend please call our booking co-ordinator Faye Maude on 03 54 332 409.

Friday - Gates open 9.30am, Scrutineering 10am-5pm, Test and Tune 11pm-6pm

Saturday – Gates open 8.00am, Scrutineering 9am-2.30pm, Qualifying/Testing 10.00am – 3.30pm

Racing 4.30pm-onwards

From Mario's site:

GTR-700: I've been flat out trying to get everything sorted in order for the car to be able to race this weekend. I won't go into all the sordid details, but after just about everything conspiring against me, I have prevailed - and the car will leave tomorrow for Heathcote raceway. All I will say on the subject is that I've lost a lot of respect for a number of people over the past 24 hours. I suppose everyone lives and learns, but I can't accept bull**** excuses and there is only so much bending I will do before I break.

That said, the car was completed tonight (thanks to Jim and the boys at Croydon Racing Development for working through the night to sort out various issues) and as a direct result, we will be able to run this weekend. I simply couldn't accept any other outcome than the car running, as I have worked too hard for too long to simply accept a "we can't do it" (or any other bull**** excuse) as there have been so many people who are making the journey out to Heathcote to see the car, and I won't let them down a second time, regardless of who's feet the blame really lies.

A last note: Please recognise that this is really going to be only a shake down for the car. It has never been run in anger in its current set-up, so I don't want to even guess at an ET or MPH as yet. We are also crippled by the fact that the Goodyear Eagle 26"x10.5" slicks didn't arrive, so we will be forced to run with the Mickey Thompson 26"x8.5" ET Drag's, nor have we had time to change to the correct diff ratios. However, at this point in time, I am just happy that the car will make it down there and be able to run!

Looks like I will be making the trip !! ;):)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...