Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well ppls You don't want to buy a Genuine Nissan R32 GTS-T Radiator.

Sit down... $935.. OUCH.

Anyhow NATRAD Radiators can replace top tanks etc.

I discovered that my top radiator hose was a little loose.

I soon realised that the plastic where the hose slides over had collapsed.

Natrad radiators quoted:

$145 for the Radiator & Motor flush/Rod/pressure test & Thermostat inspection Test.

$95 for the Top tank that is aftermarket, the aftermarket is apparently better due to the plastic quality and thickness.

----

Autobarn also can get the Radiator hoses for these From GAtes.

Top hose is $19 and the Bottom hose is $30.

Thermostat. I bought one from Motor mates as the ones from the VL are the same. BUT.. it is a dodgy one as it doesn't close properly and the car in cooler weather doesn't heat up.

So I'm going to buy a Nissan One for $48. The VL one was $24.

Total Price is going to be $335.

AND.. my bleeder nipple has crossthreaded its self due to undoing it when the metal is really hot (soft).

And ppls don't use anything like gasket goo on the bleed nipple to stop any possible air leaks when troubleshooting.

That is probably what made it cross thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8707-bran-new-radiator/
Share on other sites

Joel i got a brand new radiator for my car as the top tank was stuffed, it cost me $320 inc GST, from the mob down the road who looked after me. It is the same as stock just has more cooling fins.

PWR ones are about $650 trade price for a 38mm core full alloy radiator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8707-bran-new-radiator/#findComment-127861
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Silver... how much did the PWR radiator cost you all together? Is it possible for a raditor to brak due to big impacts... I went over a big median strip yesterday... just need to know cose of dealer warranty see if its not my fault...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8707-bran-new-radiator/#findComment-216827
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...