Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi There,

Currently I have a fairly stock R33 gts-t, mods:

Boost - 9psi

K&N pod

Front Mount I/C

Oil/Air seperator

Last run on a dyno gave me 164 rwkw's.

I'm looking at getting an exhaust...

Firstly what is an expected increase in kw's (roughly)from fitting a new exhaust system?

Secondly I do not want a noisy exhaust (just a nice note), does this mean I go for 2.75" or a 3" pipe?

Thirdly, It seems I can only afford an Cat back system (for now), what type of power will I get exrta from a front pipe and dump?

Thanks for your help.

Ps. What does everyone think of the 2nd hand jap exhaust's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8817-question-expected-power/
Share on other sites

well i got

full exhaust + custom dump pipe

hks fmic

s-afc

K/N Pod

and i made 165kw@wheels at 0.5 bar and 183kw@wheels at 0.9 bar just a few days ago!

And i got a custom made oil/air seperator going in but that wont give any more power just keep nasty oil vapour out of the intake!

Just as a guide:

'95 GTS-T, 65,000km

Cat back 3" exhaust

FMIC

HKS Pod Filter

2 Stage boost controller

Stock ECU

168rwkw @ 7psi

192rwkw @ 12psi (minor pinging)

I've been told by many people that the most restrictive part of the exhaust system is the front section. Im thinking of getting that done next and then a PowerFC.

Hope it helps...

Here is the scan of my dyno graph. I've noticed down the bottom that it was done in 'shootout mode' i have no idea about this sort of stuff but maybe it makes my figures higher or something.

Although i did get dyno'd with 20 other Skylines.

Dyno Graph

I believe the reason for my pinging (only noticable by the dyno guy with a headset thingy on) was coz i was using 95RON fuel and 10,000km old oil. (Both since changed) and it was also the 1st time i had used 12psi in around 12 weeks.

meggala

i will run u any time mate!! :D and yeah i wanna run mine on another dyno an see what i get. But it good to know race paces dyno reading are genuine unlike others!

Benm

Shootout mode is not normal and varies sumway!

and from your graph your comp must b chipped as your a/f ratios dont look factory otherwise they will be round the 10.0 mark!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...