Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

**2005 Rotora Drift Pig** hey every1....decided to post in here....this is my latest one....its my fav....its had the full shabang done to it....mods are everything heheh took me like 10 12 hours...got the idea of a drift dvd lol....decided to do the jap team rotora...its got the s15 headlights and grill i think that looks mint heheh...made the roll cage and so on....yah yah ayhlol plz let me no what u think plzzzzzzz....thanks guys..CHeerrrssssssssssssssss

rotorapigcopy2kv.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88741-2005-rotora-drift-pig/
Share on other sites

yea same here, or photo shop 6.5 or something i think. I just asked cos it looked like you have a lot of vector based lines and stuff, looks very different to what you normally see out of photoshop, i cant do any decent straight lines in my version.

Anyways very nice work :D

Edited by mick5051
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...