Jump to content
SAU Community

Autowatch or Boomerang?

Peter_hii

By Peter_hii,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

XCUZME Experienced

XCUZME

Posted
Posted

give me 5 votes and all 5 will be for autowatch.

better quality alarm, boomerang is made in taiwan or korea or something, dodgy alarm, doesnt even have all black wiring.

autowatch is adr compliant

boomerang is *not*.

your insurance company will not regard the boomerang as an alarm. to them it is as if you have no alarm.

FRISKI Mentor

FRISKI

Posted
Posted
but I'll say go for boomerang, every damn car in japan has one, and the japanese haven't been wrong so far

Are you sure that it's Boomerang or something else? Japs usaully keep the good stuffs and send us there craps, but Boomerang i believe is taiwan / korean made, colour coded.

If you were an installer who installed colour wired alarms everyday, would you remember which colour is the immobiliser? With all black wires its more difficult to know whats what true???

(Peter_hii) If you would like i would be able to demostrate how the Autowatch works, just have to come by the store i work at, if your interested send me a PM. All i can do is be honest to you about it and let you make the final decision.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

Jap's can get away with using crap alarms. Their theft rate is almost zero !!!!

They would more that likley get the boomerang just because of the flashy remote.

All black wiring = GOOD.

Some insurance companies insist on all black wiring, that's telling you something.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...