Jump to content
SAU Community

Syncro Mode Facts From The English Handbook

emanuelt

By emanuelt,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

emanuelt Rising Star

emanuelt

Posted
Posted

SYNCHRO-MODE ATTESA E-TS (electronic-torque split) SYSTEM

(Electronic controlled torque split 4WD vehicles)

Depending on the conditions of the road, this system controls the drive force of the front and rear wheels providing an enhanced drive performance. The road and drive conditions are detected by various sensors and the front-rear wheel drive force will constantly change from 0:100 ratio (rear wheel drive) to 50:50 (4WD) depending on the drive conditions.

SYNCRO MODE

By increasing the drive force to the front wheels, the synchro mode provides enhanced acceleration from a standstill and turning performance even on icey roads and in severe conditions.

ADVICE:

When the syncro mode function in turned on, the following phenomenon will occur (These are no abnormalities)

-Tight cornering effect when driving at slow speed.

-Vibration when the engine is turned off with the steering wheel turned completely to the left or right.

SWITCH

OFF - 100% of the force will be on the rear wheels when taking off. When the rear wheels are slipping, transfer the drive force to the front wheels.

ON - The front and rear wheels will share 50% of the drive force each providing stronger take off stability.

Would people agree with this the yellow bit???? Maybe I should start driving with the torque split on more.

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

Well probably as the front will have the same power as the rears, so logic would dictate that a launch with 4 wheels driving would be better than a launch with 2 wheels driving and then having 4 kick in.

Still that means that you have 4 wheels driving all the time, which I dont know is a good or bad thing?

I have done some playing around with the snow button and she seems to get up and go a lot quicker with it on, dont realy notice anything different when just driving around normally, except for the HICAS light coming on when the snow button is pushed down.

I checked and no I dont have a HICAS unit on the back so I assume that the light is infact showning me that the snow button has been engaged.

Anyone else done any researching on it?

AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

I drove with teh S mode on to uni and back today. For some reason i even notice more midrange in the car, compared to just normal driving. I find it also goes around roundabouts and uturns/courts a lot quicker with less understeer..

AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

Snow mode doesnt adjust power, snow mode just doesnt use first gear.

Snow mode is on the transmission, syncronise is on the dash (S in middle of 4 wheels)

Oddly, Ians manual stagea didnt have teh S button feature, but Ska's manually converted one does...?? Odd ey?

ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted
Snow mode doesnt adjust power, snow mode just doesnt use first gear.

Snow mode is on the transmission, syncronise is on the dash (S in middle of 4 wheels)

Oddly, Ians manual stagea didnt have teh S button feature, but Ska's manually converted one does...?? Odd ey?

You don't need a 'snow' button when you have the 'gear stick' one.. :)

With most autos (not sure if true with the stagea) all the snow button does is shift where the auto changes gears...

As for it locking in 4 wheel drive, you don't really need that, the stagea gets the power to the front very fast if the back wheels look like slipping, ie if I floor it at the lights in 1st , when I'm on a wet rd, the front torque (remember I have a gauge) cuts in pretty much at once anyway... It's also smart enough on dirt as well..

Ian

AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

When i put mine in snow mode (on the trans), it just starts me in 2nd gear.

Like, i get bogged down launches and so forth.

The sync button is tottally different to snow, it makes certain its full time 50:50, and not variable as normal driving, therefore making it like its got a central transfer case which is permanently geared to run X split

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

Where is the button which we are all talking about?

Mine is on the left hand side of the steering wheel below the console, I'll take a couple of pics on the weekend :unsure:

All I know that when I hit the snow button it "seems" to take off faster and the HICAS light comes on.....?

So where is this sync button ?

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sync button is LHS of steering wheel, big boxy looking button & a light comes up on the dash, Snow mode is RHS of auto shifter (power, normal, snow), no light on dash but the button turns 'green'.

Edit: correct??

Also, in Snow mode my auto gets switched to 2nd gear, = slower takeoffs. If I want to be beaten at the traffic light grand prix I press snow mode! :lol:

Brendan

Edited by bwilkeson
sy300 Collaborator

sy300

Posted
Posted

I was driving on some loose gravel the other day playing around with Synchro off and on.

With it off the car still got sideways fairly easily, and spun the wheels when flooring it from a standstill.

With it on the car spun the wheels noticeably less when taking off and was not as easy to get sideways.

All of this was done with the trans in normal (i.e neither power or snow)

AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

Ok, to clear this stuff up

snow0qm.jpg

sync8lx.jpg

The sync buton makes an orange/yellow light on the dash come one that looks like this

light1tp.jpg

Snow button: Doesnt use first gear

Sync button: 50:50 split front/rear

My questions,

Why doesnt Ians manual stagea have the 50:50 split? Its more for traction etc, and sure the system is fast enough anyway, but...why?

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted (edited)

"A/T Mode switch

Normal: Transmission will automatically change from power to economy mode as the conditions require (eg hill driving). When power is required the power light will appear on the dash.

Power: Gives the engine more power which is useful for hills, faster starts, etc. When the power mode is selected the power light will show on the dash.

Snow: For driving in snowy conditions. Place the select in the D position. The ability to start, drive and stop on slippery roads will be enhanced.

Note: This vehicle is a full-time 4wd.

Tight Cornering Effect: While driving with the Synchro mode in the ON position and the steering wheel is fully turned (to either side), the vehcile may brake suddenly. This is called the tight cornering effect and is the result of the difference in rotation speed between the front and rear wheels when the vehicle is turning. This is not a fault. The steering wheel will seem heavier to turn."

Synchro-mode: see first post

From the translated manual. I have no lights as such on the dash, but the switch itself lights up.(edited)

Q: Ian, is your car 4wd or 2wd?

Edited by bwilkeson
ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted
Q: Ian, is your car 4wd or 2wd?

Surely you jest :) 4wd of course (It's a 25t RS FOUR S) ie http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/21830/

But remember I have a LSD, which might be helping me a lot - with previous cars I've noticed an enormous difference on dirt with or without a LSD..

I have a front torque gauge so can tell how much (and when) is going to the front. Even on loose dirt I don't have trouble with power going to the front instantly when needed, so don't feel any need for a switch to go 50:50… :) Which is probably why they didn't put one...

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
Surely you jest :) 4wd of course (It's a 25t RS FOUR S)

Sorry Ian, just asking, although I was hoping I wouldnt hit a nerve with the query. There seem to be so many variances within the same model of car....... :P

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

Well mines a manual convert with the 260 dash, which is prolly why I have that Sync switch.

I dunno if having a GTR diff makes any difference yet, I am yet to take it to a nice grassy patch for some "extra curricular" activites :)

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted
Ska, what driveline parts have been changed in your car, doing the conversion myself right now, i will be swapping the diff with a NISMO item later when i can afford it...

Honetly I couldnt tell you excatly.....? PM Gary1 or contact Mercury Motorsports, details posted in your other thread.

found a pic of the button:

syncbutton.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...