Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you've owned it in NZ for two years it doesn't matter, you can apply to bring it over as a Personal Import. Read here for the requirements for getting a Personal Import Approval.

Basically

- Apply to DOTARS for import approval, providing all documentation

- Receive import approval

- Arrange for shipping to Australia. Ship car.

- Arrange for quarantine and customs clearance just before car arrives (speak to a Customs Broker about the procedure)

- Once car is cleared, you need to ensure it meets the state's registration requirements (ie make sure the car is roadworthy and no defects)

- Register and you're off!

If you've owned it in NZ for two years it doesn't matter, you can apply to bring it over as a Personal Import. Read here for the requirements for getting a Personal Import Approval.

Basically

- Apply to DOTARS for import approval, providing all documentation

- Receive import approval

- Arrange for shipping to Australia. Ship car.

- Arrange for quarantine and customs clearance just before car arrives (speak to a Customs Broker about the procedure)

- Once car is cleared, you need to ensure it meets the state's registration requirements (ie make sure the car is roadworthy and no defects)

- Register and you're off!

cheers , nz laws for importing cars are so easy...there are alot more barriers for aus, i have the DOTARS approval form, cheers for the help...

car is factory condition with 18" work alloys, shall i get a set of factory alloys as well, i work in the car industry here, following my girl to sydney, keen to get to know people who know some people

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...