Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to sell my scooters around Christmas time as i need the money for a car, both have been treated very well and always run on Fully Synthetic Oil, always filled with premium Unleaded, always warmed up, and given a rev out regularly to keep the engines clean. I

For sale: 1996 Yamaha Zuma 50cc

ASKING PRICE: around $1,500 o.n.o(will consider all offers)

Killometer's: 8,500 on bike, about 500km's on engine after rebuild(100kms more untill engine fully warn in)***

Manual or Automatic transmission: Auto 1 Speed ***

Engine Type: 50cc 2-stroke***

Modifications: Deristricted, which allows it to go 60kmh's instead of the factory 50kmh's :) (exhaust for $250 can get 40% gains in power and an extra 10+ kmh's) :(

Registration: Yes

Crash History: No Accident History - Inspection Welcome

Performance: Top speed is around 60kmh's on flat road, 57kmh's uphill and 65+kmh's downhill

Condition: Perfect body condition, freshly resprayed black(looks great), rust on exhaust. Engine just rebuilt and running excellent.

Other Comment's about the vehicle:

great 50cc bike which can be rode on all drivers license,

very fuel efficient, 4-5ltr tank which lasts almost a week

very reliable bike which costs nothing to run and maintain or insure like motorbikes

Contact detail's: PM me.

dscn50563sd.gif

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94513-fscheap-100cc-and-50cc-scooters/
Share on other sites

For more info i have posted up this ad on NISSANSILVIA.COM, a few Q's have been answered there in discussion. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...st=0&p=1769498&

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

wow, a 7 month bump. scooter is back on the market again, scooter has seen very little k's since the rebuild, only the occasional run to keep the engine clean and healthy.

but yeh accepting offers around the 1300-1500 mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...