Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys..

new poster here.

im currently looking around for a car for myself.

ive been looking at the 4 door R32 rb20det

seeming as my budget is limited, i have spotted some on firesport that have recently been imported.

i was told the compression test shows above 145 on all cylinders, and the car is in very good conition. what is the normal numbers for this motor?

im not that fussed about dents or scuff amkes inside the interior.... just want the engine to be reliable and without problems.

what should i look out for?

or should i stay away from them?

my budget is around 9k max... too low of a budget for this kind of car?

the reason i was choosing a 4 door, was to hopefully help with insurance premiums.. if it will make a difference at all...

any help would be appreciated

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98702-new-poster-wants-info-about-skylines/
Share on other sites

i dont know if being a 4 door will make much of a difference if your buying a turbo skyline as far as insurance goes, are you a P plater?

If your budget is set to about $9000 it may not be the best idea to get a 32. They are reasonably old and if a problem pops up it could easily cost you another grand at least. It would probably be a good idea to not only go by what the seller is telling you about "how good condition the car is" and get it checked out by someone, like racv vehicle inspections. B4 i bought my r33 i was just about to get a "good condition 180" that turned out to be just about to fall apart.

And to answer the question about what to look for and what to stay away from...

check around all seals for rust, basic things such as quality of interior which may indicate how much the previous japanese owner cared about his car. Take the car for a drive yourself and drive through the gears slowy to see if you notice any unhealthy sounding vibrating or anything that doesnt feel right about the diff and gearbox. Check the exhuast to make sre it isnt blowing any wierd looking smoke, not just on idle, get someone to rev it too, should come out clear. also if you notice any little holes in the dash, that would indicate guages were attached once. if the car had guages it would also probably have had other mods that may have been taken off, thats a sure indication the car has been thrashed, this may not necessarily mean it will be a problem car but you need to be wary of it. also cheack for smash repairs. if the car has been in an accident even after panels have been fixed (often very poorly) the body may be bent so the car will never feel 100% right to drive.

There is obdviously heaps of other things i didnt mention so anyone else is free to add!

I can help with the insurance bit of your question. I use to work for an insurance company under 12 mths ago. As fas as insurance goes any import that has 2 doors OR a high pressure turbo is a grade 9. This is the highest grade and the only thing seperating you from paying the same premium as a porsche driver is the purchase price. If you were to get a 4 door non turbo skyline (which lets face it u might aswell buy a camry) then itll be a grade 5. This is the same as something like a new beetle. This is how the company i worked for operated. Other comanies may vary but i doubt it. Just before you buy get quotes for both.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...