Jump to content
SAU Community

Hey Guys, I Would Love Your Input On My Setup

LatinR33

By LatinR33,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33_Series2Lover Collaborator

R33_Series2Lover

Posted
Posted (edited)

I dont think he said he wanted to get 200kw, just wants to know if he can run the 3 mods on a stock ecu id be interested to know also as im interested in a smilar set up.

Edited by R33_Series2Lover
LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

At this present time yeh im pretty much wondering if it is ok to run the exhaust,fmic and panel filter comfortably and safetly most importantly on the factory computer alone . Good to see im not the only one :P

impact_blue Grand Master

impact_blue

Posted
Posted

Here's my input: I think you and R33_Series2lover are the same person. Are you? You have the same car, ask the same questions, and write in the same style. :huh:

akeenan Grand Master

akeenan

Posted
Posted

i wouldnt even worry about the front mount. When I had my r33 all i had was full exhaust/ cat, safc and 11psi.

And there were no problems at all. In my opinion youd be wasting your money buying one if your not going to go crazy with mods.

Spook's_Skyline Mentor

Spook's_Skyline

Posted
Posted

yer, if u arnet going to fiddle with the boost (i dont know why you wouldnt though) dont waste your money on a fmic as they arent needed

turning up the boost doesnt hurt anything though, and gets you better gains than most other mods, so im unsure why you are so against doing this

even with the standard ecu, it can handle extra boost

LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ahhh no im not pretending to be someone else. I give you points for creative thought and actually spending the time to work something like that out. Impressive............ anywayssssss yeh well fmic would be for looks mostly as they look awesome. I dont take my car out to race tracks or the drag strip so yeh i have a good idea of how i want my car to look like and perform and this set up would do nicely.

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

In theory a bit more boost should make it to the engine with the aftermarket core?? I remember reading that the stock cooler looses around 3 psi across the core so if the after market one looses only 1 psi does this mean effectively you have upped the boost by 2psi as more is making it past the core?? Not sure on this and was wanting to know if this logic rings true :)

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

To put it as simple as i can.

It sounds like your mechanic is switched on and you should be able to trust what he says.

Everything he has said so far makes perfect common sense in modifying your R33.

I like that he has recommended a high flow panel filter rather then a crappy pod filter, and also the point that he makes about aftermarket BOV stuffing up the air flow meter signal is also correct.

Listen to your mechanic, have a read around these forums and you will not go wrong.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm with RB30... your mechanic sounds like a sensible and safe guy to listen to.

I have a series 2 R33 also, and i've got a K&N filter in the airbox.

I didn't want to start hacking front bars or anything like that, so I have bought an R34GTT cooler (plenty for sale on SAU). I'm yet to fit it, but they do flow better, are a little thicker, and have bigger inlet/outlets on the end-tanks. ARC make a SMIC (stock mount) intercooler which is made from aluminium, and is supposed to be several kilo's lighter than the original. The stock R34's make 206kw... so I figure that its intercooler is good for at least that much.

My next move after fitting that cooler is to get a CESRacing split dump pipe, then source an 80mm cat, and order an exhaust.

I'm quite tempted to dyno my car before and after to show the differences using a panel filter, R34 cooler, 3" exhaust... but it costs more money! =-[

Edited by RANDY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops. I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?
    • MBS206
      Stagea obd II low voltage

      By MBS206 · Posted

      This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc.    The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).  
    • MBS206
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • Komdotkom
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
×
×
  • Create New...