Jump to content
SAU Community

Drilling And Tapping Feed/return In Series 1 Rb30 Block


leeroy_25
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have started work on my RB30 block which will end life with and R26 head and singel turbo.. The one I am using came without the provisions for the oil feed and return already in the block. The water feed is however there. The oil feed hole is tapped into the block with a hole about 4-5mm diameter going down inside the block, after about 3.25 inches this appears blanked off. I have another block with the feed hole already in and this appears about 5.5 inchs deep before it stops and presumably enters the other side of the block by the oil filter. Can someone tell me how deep I need to drill to open the hole through to create the oil feed and what size should it be. Also what size should the threads be tapped for the oil feed and return. I was considering the option of running a feed from the oil pressure switch. What have other people done with their blocks with out the feeds already in?

Thank you

Lee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont ya just love RB blocks!

Yes, not all the blocks have the oil passages that go through! I have seen this before in my wifes old VL. It had me stumped for awhile.. So I just 'T'ed into the oil pressure switch on the other side of the block and got oil from there and screwed the oil pressure switch back in. Boom shuck a luck, Turbo had oil and no idiot lights glowing in the dash.

As for drilling out the hole to nowhere.. I nearly did that, I looked at another block that had the oil gallery that went through and I was just going to copy it. My machinest said that I could do it, just drill through until I hit the oil gallery that it was supposed to join up to. But be very careful not to deviate or.. acutually I cant remember why!

Does your block have the oil return just above the sump line like all the other RB's, or does it have a blank 'pad' that looks like it was supposed to be drilled and tapped? If that is the case.. save yourself the pain, get the machinest to do that as well! You can do it if you have the tools, but if you dont, it will probably cost you more to buy the tools and do the job yourself!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply psi,

I think rather than risk knackering the entire block for a tiny hole I will take a feed from the oil pressure switch! My block is blank on the return hole as well.. I am toying with putting the drain into the sump anyhow.. But I will think about that a bit more yet..

Only other thing I need to check out is the arrangement for the belt tensioners. But that's another thread I think!?

Cheers

Lee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there are already threads about the belt tension positions.. have you read the guide?

As for your block, it sounds like you have what is called a series 1 RB30, they are the blocks without all the holes that you really want! No fear, you can either machine them into the block, or by-pass them and get oil from the oil switch and return it into the sump. I did the later in a VL when I converted it a few years back. The best option is to put them in where they really belong.

If you go the later way, make sure you put the oil return as far above the oil level in the sump as you can. the fitting will need to be heat proof and oil proof (like a welded in fitting). Oil leaking there will really get to you!

As for water lines, get them from the plenum side of the engine somewhere and run them to the turbo. Be extra carful to stay away from hot bits and things that can chafe..

happy boosting

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...