lismo

The best place and price you can get a HKS super seqeuntial bov (new) is a place called perfectrun. It will be ordered directly from japan. They have an office in sydney so you can pay with aussie dollars. It works out to be about $335 and about $40 for postage. www.perfectrun.com.au Or you can buy them for around $250 with adaptor second hand. There was one going on ebay for $250 with multiple adaptors but no-one bid on it. He sent me an email asking me if i wanted it but i had already got one, so if anyone is interested in it let me know asap. The monza ones you can get from repco for about $190 and they come with changable settings, like you can have them as a plumb back or a normal sounding bov. But an adaptor will cost you about $55 more. I just saw the tamko ones on ebay, they look exactly like the hks ssqv and starting bid is $129 The pro's are its good for your turbo The con's are unless they plumb back they are illegal.

QUOTE: foznice then the air goes backwards through the turbo while the exhaust gases are pushing the turbo forward = Very unhealthy. So the flutter sound is the turbo going backwards and forwards the pressure of the exhaust gases pushing against the compressed intake air.. I thought the reason the sequential bov makes that noise is because of the opening it comes out of. Not the air going backwards through the turbo.

SEQUENTIAL BOV's make the sound your after!!! I just got a second hand HKS super sequential with R33 adapter for $250 But u can get the MONZA sequential (hks copy) for around $190 new.

Something similar happened to me. I was told to go to epa in sydney for testing. I later found out that the epa dont have a testing facility in sydney, well they use to at botany but gave it to the rta as they found it a waste of time and even brand new cars were not passing australian epa laws. So the rta mainly use it for trucks and taxi's. But the cop would not pass my defect if i did not get it tested. I turned up for the emission test and the guy testing couldnt believe why i had to go for an emissions test and said it was a waste of time. The guy did not write down any of my modifications only engine/chassis number. So i could have taken it stock as a rock and got a better reading. But the thing is my car did not pass but it didnt matter because apparently there is no pass or fail. I took the emissions test papers to engineer and he wrote that the emissions complied with epa regulations for how old the car was. It was a total waste of time and i cant believe i had to go through all that shit just because some cop dosnt know what the f**k hes on about. Another thing that i was made to do was weld my silencer in. It states in the epa regulation that silencers have to be securely in place. It dosnt say welded in place!!! It was a matter of definition. I expained that to the cop and he said he was not going to clear my defect if it was not welded in. I wrote to epa and all they could say was it has to be securely in place and said it was up to the police to define securely and they couldnt show my where in there legislation they allow the police to make that decision yet the epa would not admit they were wrong!!! I think that if the EPA want police to do their dirty work then they should put the defecting police through mechanical engineering degrees and also epa regulation courses. Some cops dont even know what the f**k they are looking at!!! They have no right to refuse engineering certificates. How can a cop that has done a police course for 1 year ( i dont care how long he has been a cop for) reject a fully qualified engineers report, when that engineer has done many years of study!!! ITS ILLEGAL. I dont know about anywhere else but where im from if you want your defect cleared the police cross out everything on the defect notice and write down the side that you have to go to police station to get it cleared. WTF why even make a defect notice they make it void anyway!!! Your suppose to take it to the local RTA engineer with engineers certificate, not your local UNQUALIFIED COP! I think what is going on in my town is totally illegal but no one stands up to them or takes them to court so they just continue to do it. Anyway thats my winge....lol. *edited, the town im talking about is on the nsw coast.

One went on ebay for $560 the other day with no k's at all. was new. They might have some on there.

I know you can get a new handbrake boot cover, genuine nissan, from autoforce in brisbane for $50. www.autoforce.com.au

pm sent

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JET SPEED in sydney. look on website. www.jetspeed.com.au Genuine trust front bar $400 but worth it I got mine about 4 weeks ago. It was made with a new very flexible fibreglass so it wont stuff your guards if you scape it a few times.

WANTED TO BUY: Left hand rubber window seal in excellent condition please for R33 GTS-T series 1. PLEASE PM ME Thankyou!

I HAVE FOUND AN ELECTRONIC ONE. PLEASE DELETE MODERATORS Thankyou. :boinkcar:

Have you sold this bov yet........im looking for hks ssqv one for R33 gtst. Will buy today if still available. Will transfer money/deposit into your account. $265 including postage (registered). registered is only $2.35 extra. Pm me please.

Sold To Slide!!!!

i sent you email big carl. thankyou

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Item: Turbosmart veeport type 2 blow off valve with R33 skyline turbosmart adaptor kit. Very easy to install. Uses original bov housing. Item Location: Coffs Harbour, nsw. $10 to post anywhere. Reason For Selling: Just got a HKS SQV bov. Item Condition: Excellent condition. Price: SOLD Other Info: Item is currently for auction on ebay. Pics: Yes. Contact: Pm me or email: [email protected] *edited, sorry wrong price previously

My headlights are finally finished. Just need to be painted around the outside then put on my car. Car is in panel beaters getting new front bar painted/fitted so i will post pics of the headlights on the car when it is complete. please tell me what you think.

i had this problem with my 33........turned out to be standard fuel regulator. i got a malpassi and everythings sweet........to test coils pull em out and take to auto electrician...they should have an ohms reader to test the resistance......

ive taken my headlights to guy who specialises in headlights in my town (coffs harbour). he actually told me he can make the headlight plastic like new again and includes a rubbing them back and a few other processes. but it was too late for me, i already drilled holes in my plastic covers. he has cut my plastic covers off and on the black plastic insides, he has made clear poly carbon to be glued infront of the glass lense so it is all still a sealed unit. he has done a fantastic job. only one has been completed and i should be picking them up this week. when i do, i will take some photos and put them up in this thread. i am worried about the headlights not being flush with the body work. im in the process of getting new bar so it will be about 2-3 weeks before i can take pics of everything put back together. if im not happy about the headlights being flush i will have to get some custom work done to make the headlights meet the bodyline. you'll have to tell me what you all think when its all finished!!!

mines the same........take it out and go to clarks rubber and get a new piece or maybe even a windscreen fitting place

im getting there.....not complete yet. i took them to a guy who has a special oven. the black piece is held in with screws to the plastic cover. ive marked out on the plastic what has to be cut off and they have to go to a local plastic factory to be cut. the hard part is going to be sealing glass lense to the black plastic and around the outside of the headlight. once that is done the headlights will have to go back to the headlight guy to reseal the unit. a much bigger job than i thought. but im determined to them properly. will post pics when the headlights are finished and some pics of them on my car with my new front bar.

pics

I did a search and not much came up about removing the plastic............ i have tried heating the headlight up as you mentioned but the plastic is actually attached to the black backing inside the headlight....the only way i can think of doing it , is to remove the plastic from the outside.

Im thinking of cutting off the faded plastic protector that covers the headlights...... Has anyone ever done anything like this???