slip

ive fitted aftermarket 33 gts wheels to mine as a test, they were fine. 16x7's or something.

Well you've dropped 10mm rotor diameter, 12mm width, gone vented to solid, and single piston calliper. I dont see how you could still use the 33 GTR fronts to their FULL potential with a rear set that is smaller in every respect. Especially if you are having to play with the bias valve to take some power away from the fronts to give more balance. I do definately understand what you are saying, and agree that it many cases the rear 290mm setup you propose will suffice, but I do not think it's the BEST. I may also be a bit biased in how I look at all this, as our Mt Nebo runs usually go for a fair while, and its very tight. Can be very hard on brakes. Cracked 32 GTSt DBA slotted front rotors will attest to this. You are right about DR30 rears being sufficient for road/minor track. I think I am right about them not being the BEST setup, specifically when used with GTSt/GTR fronts. What it really comes down to, is the judgement of the individual. For most people, DR30 rears may be fine, but for myself, I could not spend the money upgrading the fronts, and leave the rears as solid rotor/single piston calliper. I am glad I didn't. Notes: Some high performance mass produced motorbikes and racebikes are scaling down their front rotor diameters, and using a superior calliper mounting style and getting equal or better braking. there are specific reasons for this, but it demonstrates that calliper clamping force and control is an important factor. Porche, Ford, and Holden (FPV and HSV mainly) to name 3, are using 4 piston rear callipers on their latest and greatest, with big rear rotors. I do not believe that only 15% of the braking should, or can, be done by the rears. I would like to attribute 0-15% rear braking force to a roadbike instead, although I have no doubt that many cars may only have a small percentage of braking done through the rears. (How many cars can you lock up the fronts on, and still plow forward feeling like the rears are doing bugger all. If the rears were doing more, the fronts wouldn't have locked so easily...so on and so forth) Glad that this is still a discussion not an argument or slinging match. :inlove:

Ghostrider - a solid rotor with a single piston calliper is BEST for road use? Please tell me how this setup is superior to a vented rotor with two piston calliper in braking power, control, and heat tolerance. Its lighter, but thats about it. My car is vastly improved with the new setup, even as a commuter. This is because I have more control on the limit, and a balanced setup. On more than 1 occasion I have pulled up short, whereas with the std brakes there would have been an impact. Road use...... I have cracked my stock pads and rotors from road use. Depends on what sort of "road use" the car is getting. Again, the solid rotor with single piston calliper is inferior, you dont have as much control when trying to brake hard, and it wont be able to handle as much heat under duress. So now youve got rear brakes fading and doing bugger all. A single piston with solid rotor is cheaper and easier. If you arent going gung ho, and its really just a commuter then just do as ghostrider says, and use good pads and fluid (and slotted rotors if youre keen). If you go in deep and hard under brakes, especially on tight roads for extended periods (read: mountains) or you are doing trackwork and your stock setup cannot handle the heat, or give you the power and feel you want, then a bigger rear brake setup is a good idea along with a matching set of fronts. P.S. With a big front brakes, and small rear brakes - 33 GTR fronts, and stocko solid rears, you are not going to be able to use the fronts to their full potential.

no i cannot step the rear out with the handbrake as its a VN commodore handbrake, and therefore sucks. If R32 stuff fitted, i would have used it. 32 GTSt handbrake will lock the rear up nicely. HSV VN rotors on the back too, with 32 gtst callipers. Great braking power with a balanced setup. Rotor size is not the only issue, using more powerful opposed callipers gives more control, especially when trying to brake on the limit. Performance cars do not use 2-4-6 piston opposed callipers for no reason.

Given that noone has paid yet james, noone has got a spot. Hows your brain.

Still waiting on a date. will advise asap, then its on for young and old.

jl, get the road tyres you want put on the factory rims for compliance. Once thats done, just swap the tyres onto your BBS wheels for road duty, and youve got your stock wheels sitting there waitint for some track tyres.

Nice one geezers. Who else? Will have price/date confirmed in about a week.

ouch, i paid $450 for 2 x 205/55/16 S03's, and that was with a discount. spensive bloody things. you must have different profiles with different widths.

:headspin: Time : Late april, or may. Sunday. Cost : TBA, under $200 (probably $170) Venue : Mt Cotton Driver Training Centre Availability : 16 spots. Requirements : Current Open or Provisional licence, rego'ed and roadworthy car - no rusty shitboxes or super dodgy stuff. What you get : Professional instructors helping you go fast and do big dirty slides. They are all hoons/racers. Safe legal environment in which you can go completely nuts. You WILL be a better driver after one of these days. Some of us have done 5 already. Buffet lunch. Event..... There are 3 sessions on the day. 1. Half day skidpan. Most people know the drill now, small track with water and diesel on it. Nothing to hit really, unless you close your eyes and drive into the other person on the track. Bugger all tyre wear. Develops slide control, being smooth, confidence and its just heaps of fun. Time trials at the end as well 2. Lunch. Good food, all paying participants get to sit down and have a feed of salads sandwiches meaty goods etc. It was a lot better than i thought it would be actually. (done it before) 3. LVMA (Large Vehicle Manouvering Area) Big flat square shaped area with slalom, brake test, and a track set out on it with cones. Wet and dry brake testing (teaches you how to pull up as quick as possible instead of just locking up and running into things). Slalom, with a bit of a difference as well. Cone track - the chance to go all out against the clock, and because its set out with cones, you can really go all out For a bit of fun we are probably going to keep records of all times, skidpan, slalom, and lvma track, and have trophies for 1st 2nd and 3rd. Nothing serious, just for fun. Sponsor should be providing them so why not. I need solid interest here guys. so far..... 1. slip 2. gary any questions?

S15? You are probably better off buying an S13, having $ to set it up well for drift, and itll be heaps cheaper to fix when you smash it into a gutter, pole, another car, tree, tyre barrier.......

you can adjust handling characteristics too, and compensate for different tyre sizes as you mentioned. I run 40 front 38 rear, hard driven car. having a couple of psi more in the front helps reduce understeer generally.

depends how badly its scrubbing, and how often. You could try heating the offending area with a heat gun or hair dryer, and pushing it back.

If you can, try to get some that are externally adjustable front and rear. Pulling your suspension out, dissasembling it, and then reassembling and installing repeatedly trying to set the car up just plain sucks.

see if there is any adjustment up near the pedal box in the footwell. It may be flexing or bent as well. Luke has a strong clutch in his gts4, he actually bent, then snapped the pedal box, had to get a custom one fabricated for 4-500 bucks. His clutch used to engage just off the floor, now its up higher, and has heaps better feel.

RB74's have done well for me, the only things that have occured under hard use are... 1. need to pump up the pedal before the corner sometimes under hard use 2. cracked some dba r32 gtst rotors No major fade experienced yet. They work a better with a bit of heat in them.

if its a group of 33's, a flotilla (boats)

Im closing this thread, and heres the final word. NismoGirl - you have slandered Chapman and Chapman for doing a dodgy roadworthy on your car. You know this is absolutely wrong. You had them do a pre purchase inspection on the car, which you were happy with, and subsequently purchased. You purchased a car from a dealer, without a safety certificate. You chose to buy the car, and drive out of there without a safety certificate. That was your choice, you can't blame anyone else for that. You made all the choices of your own free will in this situation, you have noone to blame but yourself, so don't take it out on others. The dealer needs a safety cert to transfer the rego into your name, so at the very least, it has had one written out. Andrew - depends on who's doing the test, how thoroughly you want it inspected, and what you want inspected, theres no standard inspection.

all 3 brokers ive rung have had no idea and put me up to suncorp etc who i told them would not insure me, and who dont like modded cars. anyone know some good brokers?

yeah tze, genesis and i spoke to you, we were all there a bit later than 8pm.

now im really paranoid. saw an ss commodore ute, black with jetpilot sticker coming up behind me and hassling me to get past on the pacific. thought it was the fuzz, but he was flying and i had no chance of keeping up to see if it was. all these different D cars... scary.

pstanbis - you worry about getting a motor thats been in a 'hoon car'. Show me an RB thats had a genuine easy life, and ill show you 100 that have been driven hard.

Have to go in to have my car inspected for just cars after racq refused to continue insuring me. full comp is 1200 for a non turbo R31, cant justify it.

Glen, Bob Jane Toombul will look after you, tell Steve or Manny (manuel) that I sent you and youre with SAU and you'll be sweet. They looked after me again on saturday, manny is a champion.

Its the pistons that give the different compression ratio, not the crank and rods pstanbis.