The Dan

If that's the inlet side, it looks like the beginning of a piston melting. Have you looked at the gasket in the same position to see if it also has similar damage? Usually the stocko head gasket will let go if detonation has been an issue for some time and the piston can cop some damage from the detonation but not before the gasket blows.

+1 Have you checked voltage at the injector while cranking? You said up the top that the voltage drops to 10.2 while cranking. That's normal.

It could be dropping voltage to the injector drivers while cranking. It could be something to do with current issues with the resistors in place causing the drivers to not fire while the starter motor is drawing what it needs. Just a thought. I never went into it in massive detail as I could see the most uncomplicated solution so I just fixed it. I would have liked to know exactly why but unfortunately time was not permitting. Let me know if you find out the reason.

Once the car started, it would be fine, but you needed to turn the cas to get fuel in there...then it would start using the fuel you injected, then continue to run after cranking had finished

Get rid of the ballast resisters and put in injectors that suit the car. Had exactly this problem with a customer with a PowerFC Pro and GTR injectors (Dano4127). ripped out the resisters, made a new loom for the SARD 550's I had laying around and bang, starts every time. It had something to do with the injector driver in the ECU not operating correctly with that particular setup. Spoke in length with contacts in Japan and it turns out some of them have different drivers to others so cannot be wired that way.

Other cheap options include Adaptronic and the Nistune stuff. Both are good options and will do eveything you need it to. The Adaptronic also has autotune like Motec systems and multiple trigger options including the optical Nissan sensor. Nistune are like a PowerFC without a couple of the bells and whistles but with all the mapping adjustability you could want.

The LT12 is only superior in the number of outputs available. In an LT10 you only have 4 injector drivers and 3 ignition outputs. This means you have to run the injectors in batch fire (2 injectors fire at the same time) and run wasted spark or get their ignition multiplier that expands the 3 signals to 6. With the LT12 they have 6 injector outputs so you can run them sequentially. They also have more auxilary outputs for controlling other functions. I have a GTS4 here that runs the LT12S and the customer swears by it running perfectly with the Attessa system. He did have to get Microtech to customise it to work though. As with anything, it can be made to work. Just needs the right thinking behind it. I'm glad engo loves the way the car runs now with the Power FC, after all, that's the only thing that matters...that he's happy with it. I'm sure, given the oportunity, I could wire the LT12 to his car and show him they aren't that bad, but it wouldn't change anything. Microtech have a bad name for their stuff already and previous comments on support are correct too, you can't get in contact with them...ever.

Sorry, was typing the last comment as you posted this. I am only trying to give information to people who are incorrectly informed. I don't see the point in having a discussion about something unless all points are brought to the table. I haven't been arguing with Guilt Toy, he has been attacking me and I retaliated....once.

Exactly. And have the system wired in correctly so it actually works. Engo's comment: brings the cars dash lights back Clearly had wiring issues. Put back the factory loom etc and it all starts working again. And yes GT, you do have a lot to learn. This is a public forum, people express their opinions and offer their advice and knowledge. I never said you were wrong, I just said I have seen and known of many of this type of system that has been wired/tuned incorrectly and many that have been done correctly. The ones that are done correctly are the ones that run well and the customer is happy. The ones that are done incorrectly are the ones that run like crap and the customer bags them out. They are the ones you hear about on here or elsewhere on the internet. Had engo's Microtech been a correct selection of an LT12S and wired and tuned correctly, he would not have had an issue. Everyone has their opinions and I don't judge you for yours. I can be bull headed with arguments but I see this stuff all the time, every day and I'm fairly passionate about things when I think I am right. Until I am proven wrong. Then I admit it. You are the one who took it to the next level with cheap shots and personal attacks. And for your information, my mother died when I was 19 of cancer, I did work from home (which I own - don't knwo where you are getting your information from but Paul's comment makes everything make sense now) but have since moved to a workshop, I have been a mechanic for 10 years, I am qualified, I have attended Motec training, Auto electrical training, and have wired in or used nearly every automotive ECU system available. I am 6' 6" with blue eyes. If there is anything else you would like to know about me, don't hesitate to send me a PM as I wouldn't want you to run around spreading misleading information.

Certainly not. I didn't know you guys were mates.

Keep in mind that for it to use 1L in 300km it would have to be pissing smoke out at idle. That's a lot of oil to be using. The smoke at high rpm is not likely to be oil smoke but people will always tell you about it. I'm not saying it definitely isn't but you should do a compression and leak down test as suggested above to ensure the rings are sealing correctly. Are you checking the oil on completely level ground? If you check it on an angle, it will give you a false reading. Where are you checking the oil level?

If it's the oval SARD injector plug...N16 pulsar, toyota Yaris, plus most of the new 4 cyl range out there. Just drop into your local wreckers. The coolant temp sensor I think can take the same plug as the oval SARD but you have to scrape off the guides on the side of the sensor. Check before you scrape though. Crank angle sensor is a little more difficult. I would say as advised above, get one from a good loom.

You did all that stuff and not tested the fuel pump or replaced fuel filter? That's kinda the first thing you would do. The heat thing has to do with enrichment vs temp and if it get's slightly hot, it adds more fuel. Definitely sounds like you have fuel issues.

Yes, the adaptronic can run the VCT and it can be tuned to turn on at any time. Just use one of the Auxilary Outputs and switch it to RPM based. Have it trigger the VCT at whatever RPM you want. Normal is 1500-4500. You can put just the exhaust cam gear on if you like. You will notice gains from increasing the lobe separation by a couple of degrees anyway.

+1 RB25 intake cam does not accept the same gear as the exhaust. Locating pin is smaller also

They are supposed to spin. Can you explain what you mean a little clearer?

Yeah, have seen this problem a couple of times. Best way is to replace the actuator. If you are intent on keeping the actuator, you can elongate the mounting holes to allow more tension to be applied but that's a cheap temporary fix. The best way to check the tension is on the flapper is to remove the circlip or e-clip holding the rod to the arm, pull the rod off the arm and hold the arm shut. Position the rod over the arm and you should have to pull the rod between 3-4mm to get it over the arm pin. If it just slides over easily without having to pull on it, it could have lost tension.

You are the weakest link.................goodbye

I wouldn't call it a valiant defense of that ECU. It's always about making a point. The problem is, sometimes the point gets lost in translation. I believe I read you were using a LT10S for your GTR? That is a bad choice due to the limitations of the outputs. An LT12 would have done better. It is possible to wire them in correctly to handle the Attessa system but people rarely wire ECU's correctly to utilise ALL features etc. I don't recommend Microtech ECU's and would never purchase one for a customer but my reasons don't include problems with cold start or over-fueling. The point I am trying to make is that they can be used in any application if wired correctly, all supporting systems are 100%, the correct type of ECU is selected and getting a tune done by someone very familiar with the microtech system. They are not the best and can be quite sloppy, have very inferior tuning software which is tacky and out of date. Just sick of people who see a problem, blame the ECU and then start bagging them out. In reality, there is just as much of a chance that something else in the system is causing the problem or the ECU wasn't selected, wired or tuned correctly.

That's right buddy, the address is Unit 2/7 Angel Rd Stapylton. Come down and I'll show you how it's done. Or are you happy to run around bad mouthing me like your f**khead mates? Grow up child, you have much to learn in this game.

9000rpm

There is absolutely no advantage running either one. The only RB26 block that is better is the N1. If anything, due to the stroke being slightly smaller (2mm) that makes the RB25 rotating assembly better equiped to handle higher RPM but it's bugger all. Rod length is the same so meh.

You don't have many options I'm afraid. What is the part number of the Holset turbo you have. I will let you know if there is a restrictor built in or if you need to run one and what the oil return flow should be. It's up to you to do the rest. There is no easy way to set this stuff up. All you can do is use the information you are given and make the best with what you have. Fit the turbo, run the oil line, test the flow amount from the return at idle and if it needs a restrictor, then put one in...it's simple to do. If it flows enough then leave it be. Job done. Get me the part number or serial number on the turbo and I'll give you the information you need.

Do a search and you will find numerous threads with the exact same question and the replies with methods of calculating it. ( 600cc / 5 ) x number of injectors = hp at engine at maximum duty I'd say 400rwkw is a safe limit for them

With journal bearing turbos you have to be careful. They are the leas likely to have a restrictor in place. I would just get a normal fitting, hook it all up and measure the oil flow from the drain pipe at idle. You should see about 1 - 1.5L/min. You will be wasting your time opening up the fitting hole if you just have to put another restrictor in there anyway. The restrictor is best placed nearest the turbo also.