The Dan

BOVs are only illegal in VIC and SA. Definitely ok in QLD. We don't have the same EPA laws they have. I think that is changing soon but for now it's all good. Dunno where this guy lives though.

flutter at low rpm? You can buy something like a Tial or a Turbosmart V-port. You'll have to wind the spring tension right off so it'll probably open up if you run any kind of real boost.

You have to be very careful running a constant power feed to the fuel pump. The system is designed to be switched on by the ECU for safety reasons. If the car is in an accident, the fuel pump will continue to pump fuel if you don't have it switching off the pump via the ECU or oil pressure switch etc. ~35psi is normal operating pressure, so with a different rising rate reg, you will be injecting more fuel when you need it anyway. Are you setting the pressure with the VAC line disconnected from the reg?

Most compressor blades are metal. The turbo would have to ingest something. Then it would have to pass through the intercooler. Anything small enough to fit through the intercooler will not do that kind of damage. Aluminium dust and steel dust from the compressor blades/compressor cover will cause abrasive marks on the cylinder wall but not break pistons in half.

Possibly. But it is very unlikely they would cause that damage to the piston. Still waiting on better photos of the damaged piston

Can you post up a close up pic of the damage on #6 side on and close to the top?

+1 on that. Definitely weld it up. Why did it crack in the first place? and are you certain it's a crack and not just a casting mark?

Mechanical injection is superior to Electronic injection in nearly all applications...so yeah, we should all change to it.

What engine is in your car? Is it the RB30? or do you have something different? If it's the 30 then you will have a distributor and leads. Same deal but no individual coilpacks. Need much more information if you want more help

Unplug all the injector connectors except no.3 Remove the CAS, turn on the ignition and rotate the CAS drive. You should be able to hear the injector 'ticking' If it does not, then you need to confirm that there is power to one of the wires on the injector (I didn't understand your last reply as you said there is power but then asked how to test it) If you have power to injector but no pulse, then do a resistance check on the injector pins (on the actual injector pins, not the plug wires that go back to the ECU) For the Coilpacks, there is 3 wires. The thick wire that goes to the + mark on the coil is the power. Test for 12V there. You can also hear the spark fire if you unplug all the injectors and rotate the CAS drive again.

So have you tested for power to coilpacks and power to injectors?

Remove and replace the coilpack plugs 1 by 1 and it's the cylinder that doesn't change the engine note. When you have found the faulty cylinder you can then run further tests to determine the cause. Injector Coilpack Spark Plug Wiring Compression (Valve or Rings etc) CAS

Find out which cylinder is not working

The grow up comment is in relation to blurting out every chance you can get about how he has done this. You say "he has made it a habit of taking parts and never paying for them" but it is allegedly only this time. I have already spoken to him and others but he assures me it was all sorted. I don't really care who is right or wrong, I am just against defamation in a public forum. The grow up comment is also in relation to the fact you are dealing with this matter in a very childish manner. Put your complaint in writing to him in a PM. If you have already done so, then make your complaint to the office of fair trading or small claims and deal with it the way it should be done....not here.

Another destruction of someones name. From what I hear, you should check your bank account and see the money that was payed into it a couple of years back every week for however long when you worked with the guy. Maybe try to grow up a little, he's not that hard to contact.

I thought he said the noise only came on decel, then went away at idle. "The first happens when i give it a quick rev to about 2000rpm as soon as i let go an it starts to drop off u hear like noisy tappets sort of noise from the head (clack clack clack very quickly) and it stops even before it reaches back to idle." Injectors are going to be noisy at idle, not on decel.

Try checking the turbo's wastegate actuator

+1 Look for something simpler. Don't start at the ECU, it sounds like something else is telling it to go rich. ECU's don't just drop data

Exhaust blockage? Fuel Pump/Filter?

We run splitfires and a HKS twin power on the GTR. It makes 620hp at the wheels. Never had spark issues.

Nah, It was more of a rhetorical statement rather than a factual comment. Wasn't saying you said otherwise but just making an observation that if he had the second tune done at Dyson, it would more than likely rule out bad tuning.

He started it.

If Dyson tuned it the second time, I'd be surprised if it were a tuning issue.

RB20 (S1 33 coils) and S2 33 coils are wired differently. Can you please post up a MSPAINT wiring diagram of how they are wired ie. which wires (colours or output numbers from ECU) are going to which wires on the coilpack

Righto, well it won't be a melted piston. Considering the damage on the gasket and the limited amount that can be seen on the piston, if it were my car, I'd be pulling the engine out and replacing or repairing it. You could leave it if you wanted to but only the magical pixies know what damage could occur.