The Dan

Ok well if you need anything else, just let me know and I'll do all the running around for you.

yes, Nissan does. Don't be lazy

I am not referring to the cam being physically hydraulic. A hydraulic cam is used to refer to the fact it follows hydraulic lifters. You cannot use a hydraulic cam on solid lifters or vice versa. The solid GTR cam must be used in conjunction with the solid GTR lifters. The valve springs don't absolutely have to be changed but you will suffer valve bounce from around 6500rpm because the rb20 springs are not designed for a 9mm lift. Sure you can bolt them in...but you are stupid if you do. It would be like saying....I can only afford 4 forged pistons so I'm gonna run 4 forged and 2 cast. You can still do it but you will suffer in the long run.

There is no direct replacement for it unless you buy nissan.

eh?

Oh yeah, this could be good

My car is pinging too majorly to attempt a run at this point so I'm gonna wait til after the dyno in January. You definately have to be there Mick. I will let you know when it's ready.

goto repco and buy a 560-90, it is the same one. You can buy all sorts of other ones like HKS and Nismo but it's simply not worth it. the 560-90 will set you back around $12

Well, I'm sorry that you are wrong. The RB20 lifters are hydraulic. The GTR ones are solid shimmable buckets. And you DO have to remove the head to change it over properly because you need to remove the valves and springs to change them over as well. The GTR cams have a much greater lift and will f**k the Rb20 valve springs. And BTW, there is such thing as hydraulic cam and solid cam. If you've ever done ANY engine building in your time you would know that.

You won't need to change the ECU. The RB25 turbo flows more so it's a good power upgrade. Just when you get it over here....make sure you do the 100k service, change all the drive belts and MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE ALL OF THE HEATER HOSES, including the little one under the inlet manifold. How much are you paying for it in total including compliance?

I love customer diagnosed complaints. Guy rings me last week and says...'My diff filler plug is missing, can I bring it in to have it replaced?' I tell him sure thing. He get's in, driving a barina. Tells me that the diff in the back has it's filler plug missing. I assure him that they don't have a diff in the back coz it's a front wheel drive. He proceeds to crouch down and point at the lump in the floor pan with a threaded hole in the base (jacking point). When you have a problem, ask what it could be and explain the symptoms. It is easier to get the correct response that way.

did you check the fuses under the dash also?

If you put in the GTR cams, you also have to run all the GTR lifters and swap all the valve springs as well. Like RB30 said....better off getting another cam that suits your engine. The GTR cams are a solid cam, whereas the GTST cams are hydraulic. The GTR cams have a 9mm (?) lift and the GTST ones have 8.5mm It would cost you a fortune to put in the GTR cams....picture the cost of doing a head gasket.....plus the cost of the cams, lifters, and springs. $2000 I reckon. You will get better results from bolting in a set of Tomei Pon cams and they are only $800 delivered.

yeah, I like to use search function. This topic has been covered like 20 times

Are you sure it wasnt Jason....his is matt black...looks like a sigma....and IS a Skyline. Not sure of the model though.

Spotted a Silver 32 yesterday morning on Mt Cotton rd....waved....he waved back. Then I almost ran into a black 32 a half hour later coz he didn't stop at a stop sign.

And a cam that is a couple of teeth out will most definately explain why you have no engine vacuum.

That is correct but your RB20 info is wrong. They are a 78 X 69.7.

By 0 degrees I assume you mean the cam gear was set to 0. When they are set at zero degrees on the gear, they are the same as a stock cam but with larger duration and overlap. You will notice an increase in midrange torque and top end will improve/become more smooth. You should not suffer any loss whatsoever, only gains. Then you adjust the exhaust to roughly 2 degrees retarded and inlet to around 4 degrees adv. and you should get a large power increase from before the cams were fitted. Check to make sure the Cam timing is correct. By that I mean, check to make sure the cams both line up with the marks on the back plate and the crank lines up with the mark on the oil pump. If these three marks line up when the gears are set to 0 then the cam timing is correct. look elsewhere for your problem. Did you remember to unrap the plastic from the inlet plenum....maybe it's blocked. How did the mechanic install the cams?....did he remove the belt completely to do it?

geez...no one can take a joke these days. I am fully aware of how these systems work. I also am fully aware of what can happen when it leaks.

Campbell....seriously mate.....take his advice - KEEP YOUR MOUTH AWAY FROM THE NITROUS INJECTORS WHILE YOU ARE GOING 150MPH BECAUSE YOU COULD HAVE ERECTION PROBLEMS. I think yunnowho up there lives inside a bubble....lol.

What's it cost?

Make sure the cam timing is correct. Check all the basics as well like fuel and stuff. If your cam timing is out it will heavily effect your power. Set them up to standard ( 0 ) and then adjust them from there. The Tomei cams are a direct bolt on for that engine so no difference in setup. Also be careful the mechanic didn't stuff the cam timing when fitting the belt up. I bet you'll find your problem there.

forged pistons will need a much greater clearance than cast pistons But it all depends on what the manufacturer specifies for them Hence my previous remark 6 thou is not excessive for piston to bore clearance. 2 thou is extremely close. But like it was said...fileback rings do make a difference.

More specifically inside the fuel tank which has access via the boot