The Dan

lol. I thought it was a trap. If you say GTR/GTST = same then yes, GTR/NA R33 GTS4 = same The ratios are different = quicker acceleration. Eveything else is the same

And yes, we are saying EXACTLY the same thing lol. You are just saying it a different way. You're probably an engineer, I'm a mechanic

I will quote that part you are wrong about: "Now that's just untrue"

Ok so after careful review, you aren't actually wrong about the last part, you are wrong about the first part. The only reason you 'USE' more fuel at peak power is because the injector is doing it more times. Peak torque has a higher ratio of fuel usage per rpm compared to peak power. Which is why most fueling and ignition problems occur at around that time but become better as rpm increases. So, yes, more fuel will physically leave your tank at peak power but you certainly have a higher demand for fuel at peak torque

No

We would normally do a 1L container, put the return line after the reg into the top, start the engine, start the stopwatch, and either run til the 1L is full and calculate over 1 minute or run it for 15 seconds and multiply by 4 Wrong

It still sounds like you have a fuel problem. Peak torque is at approx 4500 in relatively stock form. The highest demand for fuel is at that point. You need to do a flow test before you test anything else. The problem is more likely to be mechanical rather than electrical but start there. When you have done the flow test and can tell me you have 3L/min or more, then You can move on to the next most likely cause

Absolutely not. The reg is usually the last place to look. I know you said you replaced the pump now for the second time but what about the fuel filter?

Anyone who tells you the GTS4 box is not as strong as a GTST box is talking out their arse. We run around 550rwhp on one. Have run 600+ hp on them as well. The only thing that kills them is age. IF the synchros are crunchy and it feels sloppy and old, get it rebuilt as the shift clips like to jump out when the synchros get thin. 250rwkw is absolutely nothing for one of these BUT, like any gearbox, if you mistreat it and it's old, it can and will break eventually....not from HP though

It seems as though all the generic answers have been applied. You changed the fuel pump but have you changed the fuel filter? Do a fuel flow test on the return line at 3000rpm to see if the pump is doing what it should. If the pump is not doing what it should (at minimum 2.5L/min but better to have 3L/min or more)then run the earth mod to improve the power circuit. If flow does not improve then run fresh power to the pump as the old wiring could be cactus. Recently had a car that did this with a new filter and brand new Nismo pump. New wire and all sweet now. If the fuel system is up to the task then check the ignition. Gapping plugs down is a bandaid fix but going to 0.8mm is ok. If you have checked every possible avenue and still can't find the problem, try gapping them down to 0.6 or 0.4 but only as a test. If the missfire goes, improve your ignition system. It may not be the coils either, many of these old things have terrible wiring looms. It would be rare to be an airflow meter problem. I've fixed hundreds and hundreds of these things and it's almost NEVER the AFM. I don't even know why so many people suggest it. Maybe if it was an old rusted out R32....maybe I would say that if you still can't find the problem after doing all that, then take it to a specialist as the problem is likely to be complex. No amount of throwing parts at it is going to make it get any better. It's only going to make your wallet lighter

As long as your piston to bore clearances are good, pin to little end clearance is good and the clearances for all the bearings are done, I'm sure you will be absolutely fine. Just make sure you check it all and don't cut corners

No offense taken by anyone I'm sure, but please understand that no matter how many engines I have built, if my engineer did anything short of a perfect job in his department, then I would not still be in business. With you saying that getting the engineering processes done well locally is extremely hard, I would say you are missing one of the most important parts of the puzzle. No one here would be able to spare the time to teach you how to engineer and balance your engine, then assemble it (although you seem to already have that part sorted - it's only a small part in the whole process....the assembly) Good luck with your build though, the saying is true - the poor man pays twice

? I'm merely pointing out to him that it's often not worth the risk to build it locally if the standard is so poor. There are plenty of good engine builders in Australia and engineering standards are extremely high as long as you use Chilton Engineering 07 33911672

You email engine builder in a 1st world country and say 'hey, build me this' and wait for an engine to arrive in your letterbox

you're worried about 'piss farting' around with getting bearings (which are available in 5 minutes at most good auto suppliers or your engineer) but you don't seem to think Nitriding and cryo treating a crankshaft isn't just as much of a stuff around? Can take them up to 2 weeks to nitride and cryo a crankshaft and even then you have to get it checked and rebalanced after the treatment is done as you are changing the structure of the metal and adding meterial. Keep it simple - old crank/new crank who gives a shit, new ACL race series bearings, build engine.......skids - no piss farting around at all

hahahahahaa. That is pretty funny. Please explain why it is junk

Yeah for sure there are a shitload around. I have rebuilt many engines with ground cranks but you NEVER grind a crank unless you have to. You don't just grind them to get the crank to a specific size/clearance. Usually they are ground when the crank is bent after an engine failure but can also be due to journal damage in some cases. 2 thou deep is usually the case for most nitriding but it can go deeper. For every 2thou deep you go, the journal size grows by approx 0.00005-0.0001. 10 thou is is what is taken off for a grind

As far as I know it's really good. I am not a tuner, just an end user. From what I have seen though, it is very 'thorough'. I don't think it's something just anybody can get a handle of. You need to know what you are doing. I have heard people complain about the current software but it's always stuff that exceeds their knowledge so they are only complaining in ignorance

Yeah the V500 is actually more advanced than the Motec at this point. Runs 6 multi controllers and is the only ECU other than Motec that does. You need to read up on this ECU to fully understand what it is capable of. You can overlay each map over each other and each multi controller has 6 inputs and outputs or something like that. Each one can be made as a 32x32 table which can be layed over any other table. So you can do boost over wheel speed over tps over fuel pressure over nitrous pressure over ignition timing if you want Pretty much whatever you can imagine. Only after swapping to the V500 did all our problems go away.

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it Buy an ECU that gives you all the functions you want. If you really wanted to do double maps, you can do what some of the Jap companies were doing and doing a double EPROM with a switch on pin 1 for power or whatever it was. It just swapped power to the other EPROM and ran a seperate map. Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

Piston to bore clearance needs to be checked depending on the pistons you are using. I wouldn't just assume the bores are correct for your pistons.

If you don't have the rattle at idle, then it is unlikely to be a top end rattle

I know it doesn't have aux inputs and outputs but a PowerFC is the only one you should consider in that budget. Adaptronic are a waste of space due to their freaky map changing ability where it plugs 50 degrees of timing in half your map randomly and Microtech is not really going to please anyone too much. They do the job but they do it extremely poorly. Extend your budget to $2000 and Wolf V500 and Autronic come into your price range. Even a Haltech if you were desperate.....although, if you ever have a problem with a Haltech and send it back to them, they just drill a hole in it and say they don't support it anymore and your ECU no longer works

That is the absolute LAST thing anyone should ever do.....ever.....ever

Mate, you are thinking about this waaaaaay too much. Get the ACL race series bearings and measure/assemble with those. Even if you buy graded bearings you'd be an idiot to just screw it all together without properly measuring everything. The ACL race series bearings are a tri-metal bearing, whereas, the Nissan bearings are a bi-metal bearing. The tri-metal bearings withstand something like 40% more load than bi-metal bearings. We use ACl race series in all our engines and they are great. Just make sure you build it correctly or get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you