The Dan

Well, no actually. I have never seen them under $100, we usually pay around $150 plus delivery for them second hand

wild turkey - for the 21st century gay man who can't handle scotch whiskey

I heard from a mate that he was talking shit about Andy the other day. I think he wants to start something

You cannot fit an adjustable cam gear to the inlet side of a VCT RB25DET I can understand why you would want to get rid of VCT though, what with all the extra response and hp it gives you. Who in their right mind would want that?

Yes, until the spark plugs are fouled....which takes about 5.3 seconds....and, unplugging an AFM is different to having one plugged in with no values being read Yeah IF he has no spark and no injector pulse, but having a blown cooler pipe or a split one or even a semi large vacuum leak near the plenum will stop if from running. Details are vague over the internet so we don't want to rule out basics until they have been thoroughly checked

Both ECU's will do the job but I imagine the SMC would have a few more input/ouput options for things you might want to add later

It depends on what you are using the car for, what mods you have and your budget. Waste of time if you only bought a new engine harness as it's usually the power harness on the left hand side that is the worst

Rewire the whole thing, all problems will be solved, including the fact that the factory wiring is crap by now

Shit I forgot about one small thing. You may have a split or dislodged intercooler pipe. Check for leaks. AFM swap outs will not diagnose this and it will foul the crap outta your plugs. It will also cause it to run crap and basically every other symptom you described

You need to check injector PULSE and coil spark first. If you don't have either one, then yes, CAS is most likely

Yeah RPM

AFM should be at 0.9V while cranking and approx 1.1-1.3v while idle. You need to do an ACTUAL spark test and physically determine if there is spark or not You need to check injector pulse as well. If there is no spark, but there is injector pulse, then the problem is likely to be coil packs, power to the coil packs or the ECU (last resort) If there is no spark and no injector pulse, then the CAS is most likley to be at fault. Check 12V to coils and 12v to injectors The CAS does not provide you with spark, it merely provides the ECU with a reference so it knows when to. You cannot have a dead CAS if there is injection pulse or spark or both

I also have my own mini trundle wheel and tyre depth gauge. Coppacaneatadiiiiiiiiick

That's why I carried a cheat sheet killer under my passenger seat. current code of practice printed in A5 format and mods brochure.......for the 'On the go' arguer who likes to keep it compact

12mm spanner, not 10mm And yes, it's about getting the correct freeplay, not just getting it where you want it. If you have a broken pedal box, buggered hydraulic system or a poorly adjusted pedal, then it has other issues. Don't forget that too far in the adjustment will cause just as many problems as not enough adjustment so only make small adjustments ie: 1 rotation of the rod, so that you don't go too far before it's too late

To be fair though, you do have great hair

What size?

I'm pretty sure a 5 is the hottest plug you can get in that size/thread/depth whatever. The factory listing is a 5. Like Rolls said, most unlikely. Not impossible though. Usually dieseling is caused by lack of ignition timing or very lean mixtures

Glad to help. It's good that you found someone to sort it out for you. I was going to suggest someone when you asked but thought again about it. I was absolutely certain it was going to be that gasket so it is a good thing you persisted with it or you end up like every other poor bastard around.....even poorer and still without a fixed car. Rule #2 is: If it smells like shit, feels like shit and tastes like shit....it's most likely not going to be a cheese sandwich

Spark plugs were not the cause of your pinging. Possibly you are calling it pinging when really you are referring to a misfire?

$400 is too cheap for a manifold that you expect to last. Also, i'd make alternate plans for transportation as your car is unlikely to be done in a week unless you get it welded back up, but then it will just crack again.....I'll even put money on it

They were at this years caravan and camping show. Very good trailer rated up to 4 tonne or something like that and it was only about $3k-$3.5k and could get anything that was higher than 25mm at the front bar onto it

CA/SR has the starter motor bolts facing the other way and no the crossmember is around the right way. The high side is the exhaust/passenger side

Still looks like a RB20 box. Was the car auto previously? Possibly they have used the auto crossmember but still, the box sitting forward doesn't really match with what I've seen.

Check power to the coils and injectors