The Dan

You trolling me or are you just clueless? Calculated fuel flow based on the EXACT ms open time of the injector at peak power. The injectors are being told to deliver that exact amount of fuel. So where to get one? windows has a calculator or you can buy one from any newsagent

And rightly so. If you can't run 10:1 in places of your tune then your fuel system is inadequate. Every car we have tuned runs 10:1/10.5:1 at some point. Usually at peak torque or there abouts. But then again, none of the stuff we have tuned anymore ever blows up....ever and it's only since using this tuner

We have seen a couple now max 1200's at 600hp on the nose at the wheels. That is tuned logging individual cylinder EGT's. The others that we have done seem to come in at around the same ratio so I would say 400hp at the wheels would be a fair guess as to what you could make safely on 800cc injectors but as N1 said, every setup is different and it will all come down to fuel flow and the rest of your setup. The car we just had tuned on 1600's made 610 on 22psi and uses just over 9L/min of fuel at peak power. Not sure on the duty cycle yet but I can report back if anyone is interested (could calculate also but not sure on the exact L/min rate right now). We are also about to wind 2 bar into it and crack 700 at the wheels. I can report findings on fuel flow and injector duty if it will help you guys out?

Haha glad you sorted it. I was a little worried by your last post and that you may end up breaking your engine

Who told you that?

Please take your car to someone who knows what they are doing. Yes it's a learning curve, yes it's very expensive if you stuff it up. I do not have time to do anything as I'm far too busy. I just hate seeing people attempt complex operations on their own, only to be bitten twice as hard due to their lack of experience

If the seal IS leaking, they cost about $25 from Nissan and a competant mechanic should be able to do it in under an hour

I call bullshit. Tell them to check out the breather that's directly above it

Flat out all this week sorry mate. I'm across the other side of the yatala drive in from where EFI is.

Yes I know it doesn't make sense but it is a factory flaw in the ECU cut. I have no idea why it does it. Sean explained it to me when I had the first one. I didn't want to put in a Nistune JUST to test the problem but after we had checked every single other problem, that was found to be the cause. Have had one more like it. 5k and it hits a massive wall. You can be at 5% throttle and it won't do it, bt open it up and let boost come in and it will go every time. Also if you keep the foot buried, it will keep increasing where the cut is before it can stop it. Check the timing as suggested, because if it's hitting knock safety map then it could do the same. If you're not sure on how to check the timing. Bring it down to me or EFI and either one of us can have a look for you. It only takes a very short while to rip that top cover off and do a TDC mark check. I also have a Consult cable you are welcome to borrow but it may be difficult if you do not have a legal version of the software. I also have a laptop with the appropriate software installed but lending that out is not really something I am keen to do

Sounds to me like the factory ECU cut for airflow. Yes it is normally at 12.5 psi boost but we have usually fixed this same problem by installing a nistune

Do not grind it off. You will ruin the crankshaft if you nick it

Get a hammer and a punch, knock it hard sideways in ALL directions then use side cutters or a claw hammer to pull it out

Now you need to find out why it has dropped 12V to the CAS. If there is continuity from the power wire to the ECU, then either the ECU is not getting 12V (check power to ECU) or there is a problem with the ECU providing 12V Also check continuity from the earth wire at the CAS plug to actual earth, not just back to the ECU. Make sure it is grounding

I think you just found your problem CAS requires 12v, not 1.55V

When you are spinning the CAS, do you have the ignition turned to the 'ON' position?

Mangs Bishes That's what she said Baa Baa Baaaand wagoning is fun!

Incorrectly adjusted throttle plates can cause this. The reason the engine is revving and cutting back is called Overrun. The ECU sees closed throttle and over 1300-1400rpm so it thinks it's in decel. It cuts injection as it normally would on decel. Then the idle drops far enough that it comes past it's overrun threshhold and goes back to high idle, once again, repeating itself. You can try backing off the single throttle stop adjuster on the main throttle link above the plenum. Make small adjustments as this should never really need to be touched. Another way to check it is to undo the 4 mounting bolts on the T bar and force the plates shut by hand. If the idle drops then you need to adjust the main throttle stop. If it's just one throttle plate that needs adjusting, they have an adjusting screw and 8mm locking nut beside the throttle plate on each pair. Be careful and only do this if you know what you are doing. There may be no air leaks but air is certainly leaking. All it has to do is get past the throttle plates somehow

You need to have checked ALL of the following properly: Spark on ALL cylinders Injection pulse on ALL cylinders Compression Fuel pressure Check engine bay fuses and under dash fuses. With a 12v test light - don't just eyeball them from 1ft away IF you have missing spark on any cylinders, check power to coils. If you have 12v then check earths. If you have good earths as well then swap coils to see if the spark moves to a different cylinder (only if you have spark on at least one cylinder to begin with)...otherwise swap them all out and check spark again. If you have no spark, but have 12v, check CAS signal (see below) and then check continuity back to the ECU IF you have no pulse, check 12v at injectors - ALL OF THEM. If you have 12v but no pulse then check CAS trigger signal back to ECU with a scope or check RPM signal in ECU. If you don't have a scope you can swap CAS out but that's a dodgey way to check it. There is such a thing as two broken CAS's in the world. If you still have no pulse and a good signal from the CAS, then check continuity back to the ECU on both wires to make sure there is no breaks. If continuous back to the ECU on both wires - replace ECU IF you have no compression - rebuild IF you have no fuel pressure, remove the fuel filter and check it with a gauge (no exceptions - gauge or take it to a mechanic), If you have no pressure still with filter off, check 12v to fuel pump while priming. If no 12v is present then run a dummy wire to the boot and see if it fires up. If you have 12v but no pressure, then replace the fuel pump If you have spark and injector pulse ON ALL CYLINDERS, fuel pressure, compression, no blown fuses and it still won't start, put some new spark plugs in it because you have probably fouled the shit outta them. Any plug will do. 4's will work. 9's will work. As long as they are new and they are a spark plug that fits When you can put a tick next to EVERY item, then we can continue but I can assure you, if you perform all those test you will find your problem. If you don't do even ONE of those things, don't come back here asking for more help. Those are all the things you need to find your problem. If you don't have the equipment, borrow it or take it to someone who knows what they are doing. There are plenty of good import mechs in Victoria EDIT** - One more thing, physically check ALL hoses for splits or if they have come off. If you are not sure, remove them and reattach them to be sure. You will cancel out the possibility of a major air leak AND you will learn a lot about your car at the same time

With a gauge or if you have absolutely no idea what you are doing or don't have any equipment you can pull the line off AFTER the reg. If you get an ok amount coming out of there when the ign is turned on then you should have enough pressure to start the engine

Then why the hell are you stuffing around trying to find the problem when, from your description here, the fault is CLEARLY from the mechanic playing with your ECU. Could he possibly have initialised it? That completely resets the tune. Stop wasting time and money on it and go back to them with it and tell them to fix it. EDIT** Just read your first post again You are checking the fuel pressure incorrectly You can have flow without pressure

Siemens injectors to suit a porsche turbo. Should be half the length. Or the ID/Bosch range of injectors should also fit

Harden up. I would have taken the wall down Want a tissue? Or a coffee to go with that table?

If your airbag light is on, start with IGN off, turn IGN to full on (but don't start) and press the door switch FULLY in and out 20 times within 10 seconds. That should reset the Airbag codes. If the light comes back on then you have a permanent fault. The light comes on if you play with any of the sensors at the front or steering, regardless of faults

for a Neo?