flavzz

Excellent, cheers.

What do you mean by 'correct' height?

Yeah i can imagine, it would be a tedious time consuming process. My question is due to the nature of adjustment via moving the spring seat, this reduces the dampening travel in the shock. How much have you guys lowered from stock and kept good performance? 30mm? More?

Its more out of curiosity, i only want about a 15-20mm drop as i am aiming for comfort and general performance increase. But i just wondered what the answer is to either or both questions

With the bilstein b6 setup and adjustable spring seat via the circlips how low could you go without running the risk of bottoming out the shocks?

Does SK have any contact method besides pm on here? Pretty much ready to buy

Good result mate. They are tricky things. At least the resolder may prevent some other future afm issues.

If your afms are original there is a good chance a quick touch up with the soldering iron will help. The solder dries up over time with the heat cycles the rb26 experiences and connections get dodgy. My car suddenly experienced the same issues you mentioned. I used this guide from memory http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/113284-Fixing-Your-Rb26-Afm's

I had a very similar issue. Resoldering the AFMs fixed the problem.

Interesting. If so the only solution is to change tyres? One thought id had was centre driveshaft bearing which I'd heard can cause noise especially given the kms on the car..

Running federal 595 ss allround with decent tread and no noticeable wear. I will check tho. Any other thoughts?

The car has developed a long flowing constant harmonic drivetrain noise. It is road speed dependant and independent of throttle input (clutch in still makes the noise). The period of the noise is about 1-2 seconds at 60kph cruise. I have an idea of what I think it is but wanted to get peoples unbiased opinions before I put ideas in your head and cloud judgement. Car has done 180,000kms. The noise was intermittent but is now constant.

Ok cheers. I'll report back after another bleed and try narrow down where the leak is coming from

Sorry i may have explained this poorly in my last post. The car was not getting much front drive when i first bought it. Then it was dyno'd where it was noticed. Fluid was changed and bled only after the first dyno run. It hasnt been on a 4wd dyno since so i cannot confirm or deny if the issue was completely fixed.. I cannot recall if the pump primed or not but I can confirm only a small amount of fluid came out when priming the system, i expected a steady stream.. Maybe its time to try again... HOWEVER...when driving and pushing the car hard out of a corner, especially in the rain you can feel the front wheel drive straghten out the front end so im pretty certain changing the fluid helped the transfer case somewhat. Question - if the pump is faulty will the tc work at all? I heard the torque gauge is a pressure sensor which would only show readings when there is pressure in the tc (hence the pump is working)..?

Im leaning towards the b6 bilsteins now the kyb aren't available but will contact SK when ready to buy

I searched this thread as i seem to have a similar issue. I have a significant overflow in the reserve bottle and fluid all over my transfer case. Im not sure if it's leaking from a seal just yet. Are there any open breathers it can leak from on the transfer case? Could it be gear oil from the gearbox leaking down? I only noticed it today and havent had a chance to get a proper look. Any thoughts? Some relevant background info : Also when my car was on the dyno it could not overcome the inertia of the rollers on the front wheels. This pointed to issues with the tc. Since then i replaced the atf fluid in tc and attempted to bleed the system, however the attessa pump did not seem to be working. The front wheels seem to be pulling and the torque gauge is lively under acceleration or wheel spin.

I read Sk's thread a couple years ago when I first got the car, probably time for a refresh. Not sure which Konis they were

Thats a good find however the rear shocks in the 260 are a fork type. Called a local suspension shop today and they said no KYB will fit stagea.. Is anyone running KYB in their c34? Got a decent quote on Bilsteins B6 and also Koni adjustable. Has anyone had good experiences with Koni?

That all makes sense due to the appropriate weights of each car

Ok that's good to know. I have heard really good things about bilsteins from another mate as well. I wouldnt mind dropping it an inch but any more i would be pushing my luck.

Sure thing, I appreciate the advice. Are you running a Skyline or Stagea? I will chase up availability and pricing of both brands to start with. Normally I would prefer to do it once, do it right.

I was expecting you to say that but I didnt want to hear it

I've sent KYB an email. I will post the reply when i get it. Has anyone experienced both KYB and bilsteins on a similar set up? Is it night and day between them?

Wow ok. Sounds like KYB might satisfy the brief for now. As much as i want to get the Bilsteins i need new shocks soon and the budget is limited.

Thanks for the replies. I have heard about SydneyKids good work and i have been very keen on Bilsteins. However cash is not as abundant as i would like and I am considering other options. I know the stock 260 springs in it are thicker than gtr springs but i have not compared them to any other stagea springs. I would not mind stiffer springs if need be. How much price difference are we talking between KYB and Bilsteins (either B6 or SK)?