flavzz

I've never come across it. I'd be interested to know also

Plastidipped my GTR wheels black. Loving the blackness

Any pics on a C34 Stagea?

35 posted to Adelaide?

Thats what I thought but its always worth asking what experiences people have had. I'll try track down a Greddy relocator kit and run the sensor from there.

Has anyone had experience with generic ebay oil cooler kits which come with the relocator or is it better to stay away from these?

Maybe a relocation kit is the best option. Can anyone recommend one?

Cheers for the responses, looking at that last eBay link Duncan, it notes in the description that the T piece should not be used for an oil temperature gauge as it will result in an innacurate reading... If its a little off that fine but if its a long way off then its not worth it. Have you used this in the past with success?

Hey all, I have recently picked up an oil temp gauge which I want to install into my 260rs. It looks as if I have 2 options, 1. Use a sandwich plate and run the sensor from one of the ports 2. Plumb the sensor into where the existing oil pressure sensor is? I understand option 1 but after searching option 2 I cant find any concrete info on how to do this, what adaptors I will need and where exactly the pressure sensor is. Unless I run an oil cooler I'd prefer not to use a sandwich plate Surely plent of people have done this on an RB26 engine. Any specific advice would be great, cheers

Can you pm me a price on the sandwich plate only to suit RB26 cheers

Seats look great mate. They are a nice period correct upgrade too.

Very clean looking Stagea mate. The wheels are a perfect compliment for stags. Nice mods so far.

Great write up mate!

Happy to report after the first full tank of juice since the fix, fuel economy has improved from 320-350km per tank to over 400. This was under normal city driving in traffic and plenty of spirited times for good measure. Whilst this equates to 15L per 100 this is without running O2 sensors. Had to disconnect the existing O2 sensors when we switched the ECU to a 32GTR ECU. Maybe with new sensors it might get between 400-450 around town which Im more than happy with for the nature of the car. I'm pretty certain it would now crack 500k's on the open highway. All good in the hood

Build is coming together beautifully mate. In addition to the previous comments, rebuilding an iconic car like the GTR IMO is better than buying any new car. These are the cars most of us grew up idolising and being able to enhance the original specs adds great performance and your own flavour. Your upgrades are tasteful and purposeful too. The fact that you have had the car for such an extended period of time only enhances all of the above. Top stuff!

Car is looking great now mate! That front bar suits the car much better than the overly aggressive fiberglass bar. I believe a hills run is now in order

It may be worth trying if it hasn't skipped a tooth. Apparently they do wear out. After another drive today besides the obvious jump in performance I've also noticed that the engine and exhaust note has changed with the Cas and timing change. Also off boost drivability has improved hugely especially on start up.

Bit of an update to this thread. A week ago I had the timing belt/water pump changed which all went well. This helped things a little in terms of getting rid of the backfiring on deceleration and between gears but the problem with the crank angle sensor position still remained and power unchanged. They said timing had not slipped a tooth which was good. Unfortunately he could not consult with the ECU as it was sending signals intermittently. I had already acquired an R32GTR ecu ready for a Nistune board so we swapped over the ECU's and this time it communicated fine. With the CAS in the fully advanced position the timing was not more than 15degrees. Therefore swapped the CAS over to a second hand item and in the neutral setting the timing was back to stock just less than 20* which was much more normal. So a faulty CAS was the main problem. Ran it up on the dyno keeping in mind this was on a dyno dynamics dyno where as the first run earlier in the year of 140kw was on a mainline dyno. The car made 183rwkw which is not far off where it should be for a stock rb26 so I was stoked with the result. The difference is very noticeable and the car feels much better to drive and quicker especially above 4krpm. Will try get out for a hills drive soon to test it out properly. Overall a great result. Shaun and the team at Boostworx did a great job and he explains everything he does in detail which I love.

Nice Stagea mate, I also came from being a Honda fan boy. Boosting is where the fun is at Nice track civic too!

Yes the new plan is to check all the timing is set correctly and move on from there. Thanks guys, I will report back once this is done with hopefully some good news.

Thanks mate, I'm with you. Definite chance the problem lies within here. Will test for boost leaks too. I have no problem in doing that but part of my enjoyment in owning such a car is gettin to know every part of it. I (mostly) enjoy trying to troubleshoot issues. Once I have reached a level where I feel I am out of ideas I will happily take it somewhere. But if I took it straight to a shop every time I had a problem I would have empty pockets

This is something my mate and I have discussed as we have been troubleshooting the problem. We have also discussed the fact it could be a combination of leaks and or timing issues too but I think there must be one major contributor to the problem. He had this to say to me so I thought it was worth adding to this thread. "There is nothing glaringly obvious or busted, and aside from making sure that the pressure line to the BOV is hooked up, and there are no boost leaks, there isn't a whole lot left to make sure it's functioning really. Which is a good thing! 1) I don't think it's a AFM problem - it's too consistent! They are usually glitchy problems, as you've experienced! 2) I don't believe there are any major leaks. Maybe a bit getting out here or there, but other than a leaking bov pressure line, nothing else would have a dramatic effect in performance. 3) What's left - timing. If the timing is out, by a few teeth, then the engine is going to be way down on efficiency, and make less power. The position of the CAS kinda points towards that as a pretty good cause. Think about it, the engine- it's a pump - if the exhaust valve is closing late, then a shitload of air that was supposed to be compressed gets out before it can be compressed. The computer pumps X amount of fuel in, but some of that air has escaped combustion - runs a bit rich/pops on lifting off the throttle etc. If one cam has jumped a tooth, then its out in relation to the crank and the other cam. All three have got to be synced up perfect. That's my bet!" Any thoughts on this theory? It sounds pretty close to me.

Cheers

I will get it checked when the timing belt gets changed soon. Any confirmation on if the vac line from the BOV's is split into any other line before the plenum such as the charcoal cannister or is that separate?

Thanks for the replies so far. Is there any way to check for a blockage besides taking the whole system apart? I will try get a leak test done to identify all possible losses but nothing is audible upon driving it. The only other thing of relevance is when I took it to the dyno the timing was retarded to 10*. For what reason I'm not sure, so they advanced it using the CAS back to 20* stock value. But now the CAS setting is about as far to the right as it can go which my mate said is unusual to see on a RB26. It should be pretty neutral in its stock setting yeah? Is it worth checking if the base timing of the cam gears is set up correctly?