Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Stagea'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Automotive
    • Newbie Introductions
    • General Automotive Discussion
    • VR Series - R35 GTR, Juke-R
    • RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
    • VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
    • Four Door Family
    • Wagoneers
    • Classics (1953-1988)
    • Motorsport
    • Importing Vehicles
  • Modifications & Maintenance
    • Forced Induction Performance
    • Naturally Aspirated Performance
    • Suspension, braking and tyres
    • Drivetrain and transmission
    • General Maintenance
    • Cosmetic, Styling & Respray
    • Car Detailing & Paint Care
    • Car Audio & Electrical
    • Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
    • Fabrication
    • Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
  • The World & Other Things
    • SAU News
    • Music
    • Japan
    • PC & Games Discussion
    • Computer Art
    • Photography
    • Health & Wellbeing
    • National Events
  • SAU Australia
    • New South Wales
    • Victoria
    • Western Australia
    • Queensland
    • Northern Territory
    • South Australia
    • Australian Capital Territory
    • Tasmania
  • SAU New Zealand
    • North Island
    • South Island
  • SAU North America
    • Canada
    • United States
  • Classifieds
    • Trader Ratings
    • For Sale (Business Traders)
    • For Sale (Other Items)
    • For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
    • For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
    • Group Buys
    • Wanted to Buy
  • Site Maintenance
    • Site discussion - including Ideas/Feedback & Bugs

Calendars

  • SAU Calender
  • Administrators Calendar
  • SAU WA Events

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Car(s)


Real Name


Build Thread


Build Thread

Found 480 results

  1. I’m on my way back from work when all of a sudden it feels like I lose one cylinder. Missfireing like crazy running real rough. I get back home and start trouble shooting what’s going on. Turns out one of my coil packs died but while I had all the spark plugs out I thought I’d give my new compression tester a go. Much to my dismay all 6 cylinders were around 110 psi. (full report below) I don’t believe this to be the cause of the misfire as I’m %99 my coil was munted. But still 110 psi in all 6 cylinders isn’t good. I’ve got a few ideas what could be causing the problem. But any input or ideas would be great. I’m thinking it could be worn piston rings or possibly ringland failure. Although I find it hard to believe the ringland failed on all 6 cylinders. Also The engine only has 150k on it and is basically stock only thing I’ve done to it is upped the boost from 7 to11psi nothing crazy. But what I think the problem most likely is, is my timing belt is starting to go or skipped a tooth or something and is throwing the timing off and therefore the compression. But hey I’m just some hopeless 18 year old. If any of y’all have the slightest idea what could be going on some guidance would be greatly appreciated.🤘 Rb25det NEO in a rs4s stagea 150xxx kms C1 105 psi C2 110 psi C3 107 psi C4 110 psi C5 105 psi C6 117 psi
  2. Hey wagoneers About to get an absolute steal on a RSV stag and just sorting out P plate exemptions and what not in Qld BUT, having some back and forths with a few people saying rs V dosent fall under 125kw/t even tho it's 123kw/t Also just wondering where the hell and who the hell I'd ask or find a power spec sheet from Nissan for the exemption? If anyone has one that'd be greatly appreciated
  3. hello once again anyone out there got a english translated spec sheet from nissan or even home made that passed for a rs4/rs. about to buy a rs but willing to do a cheeky photoshop to pass the rs someone PLEEAASSEEE help asap
  4. Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  5. hey all, stripped old mate david sta-gea a while ago and have some left over stuff series 2 c34 front bumper reo $100 front and rear seatbelt kit- missing some bolts $50 front passenger side factory xenon head lamp- one broken tab (i have the tab) uncut balasts box of random interior pieces, trims etc $20 located in thomastown please text only on 0411421097
  6. Hi All, First time poster so I appreciate your time. NISSA STAGEA WGNC34 RS FOUR S FOR SALE. Year: 2000 Kms: 122000 Location: Sydney - Newtown Colour: Silver Condition: Good New Wheels and Rims. Goes like a dream. Recent service in July. Manual + 4WD. Turbo Timer. Not really sure what it's worth so happy to take offers, but from the limited adds I've seen on carsales > $15000 I would think. Thanks everyone.
  7. Hey Guys and Girls, I've sold my Stagea and no longer require this OB-Link............ THIS is the ONLY version of OBD2 reader that will read the ECU. Not that complex, connects to any device be it your phone or a tablet ETC via bluetooth. You can display anything you would like off the ECU ie: *Water Temp / *Oil Temp / *Ignition timing / *Intake temp There's one on e-bay atm for $269.00 but I payed less than that back in 2012 so snap this one up instead. Price: $225.00ono Location: Western Sydney or Postage at buyers expense. Thanks, Theo.
  8. Hi SAU, First time Stagea owner but second time Nissan owner. Over the years I have owned a few vehicles: NA6 Miata, XE10 IS200, RPS13 Type X and finally my JZX100 Chaser. More recently I have picked up my (new to me) 1999 WGNC34. Decided to write up a build thread to try document my journey and any stuff that I come across which could potentially help any other future Stagea owners. I had been searching for a Stagea even though I loved my Chaser; but it wasn't big enough to hold my mountain bike. Mind you I do not have any kids so I wasn't exactly buying the Stagea to fit in baby seats or prams - just always kind of had a weird fetish/fascination with sports wagons. A few of the Stagea guys on the Facebook group advised me to check out a one GV1 Series II located in Adelaide. Previously I never had the balls to go interstate just in case it was a stinky pile of kangaroo crap and I'd have to organise flights to come back. Prior to flying out I did check out a few Stageas here in VIC but they were either in piss-poor condition or were charging through the roof for a still piss-poor condition. (To be noted I was looking for one that already had a R34 GTR conversion done as I figured if I was ever to sell the Chaser it would be for a R34 GTR (queue cliche little boy's wet dream) but apparently the dealer was a little dodgey and the other private owner couldn't find any paperwork and was a little hard to deal with (had zero confidence in flying up to QLD for a potential shit-box Decided to call the Adelaide owner and upon speaking to him I gained I'd say a bit more confidence. This Stagea had been a single Aus owner, loads of receipts for both servicing and parts plus he had owned it for about 4-5 years. [There were two or three that I was considering which were interstate as well however did not seem to have the paperwork that this one did.] It was what I was looking for; factory manual Dayz edition with dual sunroof. My Chaser nor my 180SX never had a sunroof and I missed having one from my old XE10. She had originally been imported by Sinergy/Synergy in Adelaide and lived its entire life there. Further to the receipts it did come with a quite a few juicy fruits and tuned to 259awkw and 673NM. The following mods came with when I brought her back to VIC. HKS 2835 GT PRO S Turbo Custom Turbo Dump Pipe 3" Full Exhaust Blitz FMIC - Return flow Bosch 750cc EV14 Injectors (E85 compatible) ARP 2000 Head Studs Nistune ECU Turbo-Smart BOV Turbo-Smart Boost Gauge Walbro 460 LPH E85 compatible Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Spitfire coilpack HKS Pod Filter Z32 AFM Billet Catch Can Modifications - Wheels RAYS GT-7 2 Piece Forged 17" x 8.5" 235/45 Tyres Modifications - Suspension Bilstein Apparently all servicing, tuning and installation had been carried out by JMS in Adelaide. Pro's: Juicy fruit mods Power is already more than enough for me - I tend to baby my cars Con's: Leaky (wind and water) from rear passenger window Rust underneath passenger wind mirror (known issue with Stageas) Rust on tailgate (known issue with Stageas) Uses way too much fuel for the way I drive - this may be due to a rich tune. Pictures to follow!
  9. So I just finished installing my new clutch kit on my rs4 stagea, gear box is in and bolted up. The car comes with basically the same gearbox as a 33 gtr with a pull style clutch. I was just about to put the slave cylinder back on but realised that I could slide the clutch fork along the input shaft with no resistance. after getting some light I could tell that the throw out bearing isn’t locking in to the retaining clip on the pressure plate like its meant to. whenever I pull back on the fork it basically just pops right out with minimal force. I’m not sure if I’ve just damaged that little clip along the way somewhere or its defective. So is it possible to just buy a new clip from the manufacture?? Or maybe I’m just missing something is there a special way to get it to engage or something????? Pls help thanks
  10. Hey everyone I’m doing a clutch job on my rb25 stagea and have got to the stage of replacing the rear main seal. This bloody rear main seal retainer WILL NOT BUDGE I’ve tryed for hours to break the gasket seal but have gotten no where. On my first attempt to remove the retainer I snapped it basically in half “pics attached “ trying to pry it off from the block. I have got another one but at still struggling to get the broken one off. There is very little room to get to each side of the retainer from under the car with a screwdriver or pry bar. After doing some research I found that you don’t even have to take the retainer off to get the seal out but it’s too late now I need to replace it. If you guys know any little tricks or tips to get it off that would be greatly appreciated🙌😩
  11. Hey Guys and Girls, Selling my GReddy InfoMeter (Doesn't work on the Navara *Sad Face*) HAHA Read's off the ECU check out the Vid for more info....... Price: $300 Location: Western Sydney or postage at buyers expense. Thanks Theo.
  12. Hi all I have a great condition R33 gtr airbox, competed (box and snorkle) forsales, Sth East Melb pick up preferred. $350 is what i'm asking for, exactly what i paid for. Thanks
  13. Genuine Rays Gramlights 57F-PRO Forged Light weight Staggered setup 18x9 +37 5x114.3 18x7.5 +37 5x114.3 NO GUTTER RASH - one has a tiiiiny mark on it that's it basically looks new just needs a polish Rears 265/35/18 with very little tread 🤷‍♂️ Fronts 215/40/18 with 90% tread ✅ Kumho tyres Price : $2000 negotiable just throw me an offer RRP was $3000 without shipping to aus and now they are discontinued pretty sure. Located Western Sydney Mount Druitt Text me on 0490429175 if interested cheers .
  14. Hey Guys and Girls, I've sold my Stagea and now selling the Vented bonnet - It's a Freeway Dolphin Bonnet. These were $1600 brand new plus importing from japan - its a big item it wasn't cheep. Try Googling M35 freeway dolphin bonnet OR M35 Vented Bonnet...... you wont find one!!! besides a photo of one on a red car this is the only only we've ever found in existence. IF you would like the opportunity to own this I'll be putting this up on E-bay in a few weeks. Reserve will be set at $800 or you can buy it now for $1200. Don't bother PM'ing me with offers I don't care how many times I have to put it up on E-bay until it sells OR ill keep it and hang it on my garage wall as a momento to remember all the good times I've had with this car!!! Cheers, Theo
  15. Hey guys and girls, It's a sad day but I've got to let it go as I've bought a tow car and can no longer keep the Stagea. I bought the car from Northshore Prestige back in 2011 (65,000km). Been looked after and undercover all its life here, serviced every 5000km. it has 11months Rego and is priced to sell. $12,000. (204kw@w & 750nm - Still on stock turbo @ 16psi) I'll start off with the extra's: Freeway Dolphin vented bonnet $1000ono G37 Akebono Brakes $2000ono HKS F-con V-pro ECU with PnP loom $1750ono the following list comes with the car......... K&N airfilter with custom power duct airbox mod. Scotty's Custom 3" Dump pipe. Full SS X-force 3" exhaust with 100cell cat, resonator and muffler with dual tips. BC Racing Coilovers, Whiteline Swaybars & Underbody bracing. 17mm Phenolic intake spacer with ceramic coated intake & pipes. Transgo Shift Kit with B&M trans cooler and thermo fan. (80deg) HDi 3" Intercooler Kit. Mishimoto Radiator and 76deg Nismo thermostat. Scotty's Water coolant mod (opens up the rear water gallery on the back of the block) Daleo's Custom 2.5" suction pipe. Scotty's custom 16PSI wastegate actuator. Turbosmart Dual port BOV. 18x8" Koya RG-Tek rims with RE003's 350Z 3.08:1 LSD diff HKS? Sandwitch plate and B&M oil cooler with thermo fan. (80deg) Power steering cooler. Blacked out AXIS grill / Blacked out front headlights. AXIS body kit with flairs. Nismo rear tailgate wing. V35 Facia with Kenwood DDX4031 Cd player/ Sat Nav/ Bluetooth etc etc AXIS floor mats & leather everything. Rear boot mat with pull out cover. Service history summarized. LSD diff service and installed with new fluid 10/2013 Gearbox flushed 112,500km 4/2016 Rocker cover gaskets replaced 4/2016 Coolant flush & Oil/filter 112,500 4/2016 Spark plugs & Oil/filter 120,000km 4/2017 K&N filter (after the BMC filter died) 124,500km 10/2017 Brake Fluid flush 124,500km 10/2017 Oil & filter 129,000km 2/2019 the belts have been replaced haven't noted down when but lubed every 5000km O2 sensor & AFM replaced 2017 New battery in 2017. New front disc's in 2017. I have a new pollen filter which hasn't been installed yet. and if your still reading: 2011 - all mod's except ECU 176kw@w on the DVS dyno 2012 - it made 204kw@w on the DVS dyno with a guess of 750nm of torque. 2012 - WISD 1/4 mile - 13.9sec (i think it was at 140km/h) 2014 - SMSP South Circuit - 1:08 with Nitto Semi slick's Hopefully i've covered everything but feel free to email me or send a msg (can't answer during business hours) tmuuldriks at gmail.com 0412 zero seven three 215 Thanks Theo.
  16. Hope this doesn't come across too self-marketingy... i'm not a business or anything, just a dude who couldn't find a Stagea shirt I liked, so played in Illustrator a bit until I made something I liked. Another member here I know IRL said to post here cos you guys might like it. If mods don't like this, I'm happy to remove it. http://bitly.com/doubleunicorn It's available there printed on a bunch of different products (t-shirts, stickers, hoodies, phone cases, etc), and you can pick a different colour base tshirt if you don't like the prechosen ones. If SAU wants to use the design as an SAU shirt or stickers, I'm totally happy with that, as you guys could get it made cheaper anyway. I get like a dollar of each sale from the above link, so it's barely worth the effort other than cos I wanted a t-shirt and sticker of it myself.
  17. hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.
  18. Selling a set of underbody braces to fit a M35 Stagea. $200 Painted black and attempted to test fit, but quickly r ealised that they don't fit the NA/RWD Stageas... oops! Also selling a pair of resonated test pipes for a VQ35DE. Brand new still in plastic, just decided to go another route. $150 Also-also selling some Lexani tyres that came off my current rims. Tread is at least 75%. $100 Also-also-also selling some 20" rims in another ad I've posted.
  19. Heya! I just got my Nissan Stagea RS Four V today and I'm overly excited about it. Bought it back in November and just got it home today. It's my first JDM car, and Station Wagon. Already I've gotten a lot of looks in it. I hope location isn't a matter, because this is about the only forums I found with anything on the Stagea so here I am.
  20. Hey, I've only just got my Stagea S2 today, and as luck would have it, the driver side headlight bulb exploded. However I'm struggling to figure out what bulb to replace it with. I've seen different answers with the D2R, H1, H1R1, H4, H3, and others. What I want to know, is which light is which, so I know what to replace. There is the outside quarter lights, with a large and small bulb on the inside. Then the inner quarter lights (Brights I think?) in the grill. And then the rectangle lights on the bumper. And for each light, which size bulb do they take?
  21. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  22. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  23. Hi ther, i have a problem that came after i changed my baulbes in my AC, replaced them with LED's and my cluster started messing up, Fule and Engien heat is always on max, spedo don't work, and RPM bounces on 500-1000rpm on idel and under full pupp it only goes up to 3000rpm, and the KM on the car reads 999999. Changed back to my normal baulbes and cheked the wiers to chek if ther was any faulty wiers behind the AC unit but coudent finde anything, changed back to my old Baulbes and it stil dosent work. I alsow blew the fuse for "Tail L" wile replacing the baulbes and have replaced the fuse. So, what can be the problem? Can i have messed up the cluster and blew a resistor? is ther a relay that have exploded? I have had the AC unit and CD player out 6-7 times and tried to turn the key on and off, and sometimes it works like it shoud somtiems it just a bit faulty shoing way to hige RPM and the wrong KM (shows about 116k the car has traveld 160k) Sorry if the post is messy, im not always that good at explaning things
  24. M35 Stagea RS - Wrecking Wrecking my M35 Stagea Parts (off the top of my head) that are sold are: Aero Body kit (sold) Front guards (sold) Tein Coilovers (sold) Whiteline Sway Bars (sold) Rear Compartment cover (sold) Headlights (sold) Eyebrows (sold) Centre head unit (sold pending payment) Steering wheel (sold pending payment) Reverse Camera (sold pending payment) Number plates also for sale: M35WGN All located in Lilydale, VIC Pickup preferred, however will post items at your expense Message me if you are after something specifically, and i'll let you know if it is available
  25. Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
×
×
  • Create New...