SLIPPERY

yeah i saw a few protons with evo 3 fronts with the intercooler aswell i was disgusted haha

if anyone in noble park can lend him an AFM, hed greatly appreciate it

i didnt see any skylines in penang when i was there a month ago as far as decent cars are concerned, there was an evo 9, 300zx and 350z....i was quite disappointed really.

yep, both for $280 The fronts are new and the rears were on for a week or something

just picked up a set of endless SSS front and rear for $280 in the for sale section

had a highflow t3 rebuilt a year back that packed up in less than a week of driving. Was stripped again and Turbotech acknowledged it was their human error and rebuilt it again for nothing going strong now

nah rubbing wont make metal shavings....that tends to make a hole in things The action has to be high speed, like the engine rotating....which im sure its the problem described above

if the thing is still running and timing is still spot on, then count yourself lucky...it should be ok as youve said, youve inspected it and it appears to be fine

if you can do them for $280 delivered then ill take them

yeah and made sure to seal as not to rust.

theyd fit non-brembo 32GTR wouldnt they?

lol, well thats for next weekend i guess I dunno why nissan bothered to cram more non-needed stuff into an already crammed bay...just to make the skins on our hands suffer

ohhh i wondered what that radiator type hose went to i guess anything that saves weight is worth getting rid of. Whats the best way to get to it? front bumper off? or go from the top? cheers Ronin

What are the Pagid Blues worth for a front set Gav?

and to answer you question....nah, didnt have the modify the box for the pipes

the airbox doesnt sit as flat as id like it but the bonnet still closes The airbox is also against the Greddy pipe but i have orientated in a way that both can be friends (ie. rotated slightly) Resonator? Is that the plastic behind the headlight that the original snorkel plugs into? i wondered what that was. how do i remove it?

i hope you understand what i mean Just ask me more questions if you need to, i should be able to help

Dont start it again!! Im betting youve taken the timing cover off and have exposed cam gears? The shavings are from the nose of the exhaust cam grinding into the back of the CAS. Akin to putting the CAS on a lathe This happens because the clearance that the timing cover provided has been taken away. Now theres no room for both to spin in harmony You need a spacer plate cut from some alloy or something, or just put the timing cover back on The pin from the CAS with the half-moon end might have snapped off already, plus the heat that is generated when the shavings go everywhere, means the CAS might not have much life left unless you dont start the engine again!

heres the pics as requested... you can see the ducting from the front bumper. I had to squeeze it through the little gap and lube it with some vasoline haha cause i couldnt be bothered taking the bumper off. This ducting goes up through the guard and comes out in front of the airbox. I had to hacksaw some of the lip off the airbox where the entry is. Where the plastic snorkel would normally attach to. What this does is give the ducting a straighter path into the airbox which keeps the diameter of the ducting at its largest. i bought the ducting from a motor shop and its the Monza brand and is just ribbed convoluted tubing, about a meter in length. Approx 4 inches in diameter.

i knew i should have taken pics while i was doing it ill try to get some up tomorrow after work

thanks for the replies guys. I wasnt looking for pics on cars, its just when i looked last night they had no pic next to the description. it looks as though the snorkel runs from the front bumper slits and then up through the guard which would be just as effective as my set-up where ive run some ducting through the bumper slits, through a hole in the guard and into the front of a modified stock airbox which is a complete sealed system. And youre right, the 'air box' is simply a cold air partition. thought it was too good to be true All though ill give it kudos, it looks nice and would do an ok job with a cold air feed whilst letting you retain pods so where it stands : made my own snorkel and cold air feed for $25 (cost of piping) Bought a GTR airbox to replace pods and modified for free $150 All up ive spent $175 instead of $445 plus postage and can sell the pods to cover costs. yay Now the question is...would their costly setup be better? More people should give the stock airbox a chance

hi guys Just having a browse on the UAS website and came across their 'cold air induction' snorkel and 'UAS alloy air box' for the 32 GTR Unfortunately there arent any pics next to the items. Is anyone using either of these on their GTR? Or do you have any pics?.....even past experiences with these products? For the price they dont seem too bad and if there is actually a decent and cheaper alternative to the ARC box that enable you to keep pods, then im all ears Heres the link for a reference (nismo.com.au ->products -> intake and cooling) Btw they list the airbox for $195 and snorkel for $250 cheers

no probs mate and to answer a question in your last post, yes that can be true in regards to forgies but could also be due to no oil being in the head immediately after start up and after a couple of secs the oil pump has done its job by pumping some oil in there i dont think a couple of secs of ignition is enough to heat up the pistons sufficiently to the point where they expand so the noise, i think, is oil related.

Id limit power to around 400rwhp on an old unopened engine. People have made over 500 but why stress it unless you wanna break it your oil pump doesnt need to be changed. Timing belt yes i wouldnt run 2 bar on a stock 26 either. Around 20psi would be MY limit I also wouldnt bother with the walbro pump and instead go with a bosch 044 or nismo straight replacement. Those 2860s will want some fuel and the bigger pumps would be the way to go get rid of the mines chip....its gonna be no good. (Im assuming) its suited for jap fuel and who knows what turbos. Find a power FC for $800 here on the forums, boost her up and get a tune. You can make 400rwhp without stressing the motor too much with massive boost levels with the -5s. (less than 20psi) And yes, the turbos can handle 1.4 bar sell the fuel reg and put the money towards the new computer. Your fuel system will be fine without it Perhaps for some peace of mind, you might want to upgrade injectors to 700cc Have a look at the sticky section of this forum with 26 dyno results and theyll show you what you can achieve on an unopened motor and with your turbos

maybe throttles got a little gunk on them somehow and werent sealing too well when closed, hence sucking in a little extra air