soon2b33

"3 your fuel pump is not dying? it happened to me and it confuses the ecu showing a/f is good but it's actually constantly retarding timing and i only reached no more than 150rwkw till i replaced the fuel pump. " This strikes me as possible. i assume i attach a t piece with a pressure guage to test the fuel pump. I'm getting good economy and it doesnt miss at all when i floor it.

its done 96,000km. had the timing belt done last week. Yeah i hadnt thought of getting a comp test done on it, might have too now to be safe

here is the dyno print out. yes im located in melbourne, but just got back from a few days in sydney. btw i got 10L/100km economy from sydney to melbourne

im not too happy with how it feels tho, to be honest it doesnt feel one bit faster than 138kw The guys that dynoed it said the car was running fine, they didnt seem suprised with the reading at all. so i guess it just needs some more mods.

my car is slow ok! :lol:

thanks for the replies. It was practically 10psi, it did reach it at one stage but then bled off a touch which is meant to be ok. I plan to make a box for my pod so it draws air thru a hole where the old intercooler piping came thru. Im sceptical on the result of this tho, as by the time the air goes through the turbo it gets so hot it needs to go via the intercooler anyway. as i mentioned earlier i thought drivetrain power loss would only be 40kW max.. hehe not 60 depressing especialy when u see people posting these 190 - 220rwkw figures haha.. Is the general consensus that a piggy back computer with a tune will provide me with a Significant power increase for now, or do i need the dump pipe to make the most of it. (spending $$$ on a dump pipe and powerfc at this stage is waay down the track at this stage unfortunately)

i'l have to check my cat out. but ive got a newish looking 3inch system from the dump pipe and back. I bought the car with a pod, so i dont have the standard airbox. well i asked the guys that dynoed it how they got the flywheel figure, and they said it can be done by computer.. so i guess its probably the dump pipe restricting me. tho i could swear it nearly felt faster before i got the cooler and raised the boost :S maybe just phsycological since there isnt that second stage boost kick any more

i got my car dynoed, r33 gtst with fmic, 3 inch exhaust all the way with standard dump pipe, boost at just under 10psi it was running well, richened up a bit at the end, which i was told was fine. But why the huge loss of power thru the drive train??? if it has 200kW i was expecting a more impressive figure of say 160rwkw at least! ive raised the boost up after that to about 11-12 psi but it still doesnt feel like a jet.. 138.8rwkw sounds a bit embarrasing. Do people talk rear wheel kw on here or mainly at the flywheel? further down the track will be dump pipe, and power fc and tune.

Yes the piping is very cheap quality on those intercooler kit specials. In my series 1 the indicator/fog lights didnt fit back into their spots in the front bumper, (still need to buy some custom indicators), horn needed to be relocated (no big deal) and yes the bonnet did push down on the top cooler pipe, and hit the fan. None of the strong hose clamps provided fitted either, so they had to go with standard ones. this was also claimed to be "Bolt on" (i recomend buying the cheap intercooler for 175, and then pay someone else the 500 to make up the piping kit out of better materials, and provide a better fit. Trimming the fan is simple, and as said above u can always go electric.

Hi, i removed my turbo heat shield due to a screeching turbo, to find a nut missing off the manifold to turbo stud, and the others were loose. the oil line is in the way of the bottom left one, preventing me to tighten it. Is there a way of tightening it, or will i need to remove the oil line and spill oil everywhere in the process of trying to get to it? Thanks people! (going on a melb - syd drive friday night..)

i paid japanese special vehicles 338 to do mine, i found out jorge at mr muffler in epping would have done it for 280 with genuine belt, and coolant. they do intercoolers and a lot of performance work

u have the solenoid in the right hand side of that picture. from wat i understand this Replaces the solenoid. u have 2 hoses going into the solenoid, feed them into your boost controller and leave the "3 way" t piece as it is.

i didnt realize it came with an instruction sheet with diagram. basically i disconnected the 2 solenoid hoses and hooked them to the boost controller. I also disconnected the solenoid at the plug.

So the standard boost gauge which goes to 14psi isnt accurate enough? i only want to raise it to 9-10 so that would be just under halfway from the dash to plus 7. Where abouts is the actuator located..?

did all r33s come with speed limiter? my gts-t doesnt have any limit, needle keeps going down and around..

well as ur turbo is made up of different materials, its good to let it cool with a turbo timer, to keep oil / water flowing thru, since even under actual boost your turbo still spins at quite a few thousand rpm, tho nothing compared to the 40,000 plus rpm of boost..

Does the engine need to be dropped outta the engine? ???

his mates could quite possibly have been egging him on. i know when i drive friends places, they expect me to drive like a nutcase for some reason coz they dont have a quick car. those back seat drivers can be quite infuriating sometimes, really get to your head. At the end of the day, Responsibility lies with the driver.

get a skyline.. r33. u wont want a fast car when ur all old and mature at 25, ive seen it happen. ur young u need a nice car, and in a few years time u'l grow out of these toys and get something normal not a jet on wheels

oh no.. thats the exact sound ive heard, very very faint whistle at 4500,5000rpm i was hoping it was not anything to do with the turbo tho

exactly the same problem here mate, with a s1 r33. i pulled out teh switch didnt seem to be anything wrong with it. sometimes i knock the door with my knee and that gets it going. or i'l pull it up for a second (even when window is up) and then try pressing it down. really annoying. im thinking of going straight to an auto elec..

"+7 on the gauge is 14.5PSI I do believe.. so 1/2 way is about 7PSI" wow, why is +7 14.5psi?? yes i had the same problem, saw that it only went just over halfway so i wasnt sure if it worked or not, so i changed it back. pity i didnt try it just with myself in the car, everyone wanted to jump in to see what the difference was.. so with 4 people.. went even slower than normal obviously

im still trying to work out my remote, has 4 buttons, 1,2,3,0 the guy i bought the car off said 3 didnt do anything, yet when i press it the red light about the key hole in the dash will blink. when the turbo timer finishes the car unlocks. scary. and beat this, when i have the bonnet open and arm the car, it starts when i shut the bonnet.. either that or when i shut the bonnet, and then try to arm it. remote has a little "Kings Gun" written on it and has a little screen above the 4 buttons if it means anything to any one it chirps as well tho sometimes i can silent arm it but then i dont realize how i did it

get an airfilter.

i usualy blip the accelarator down thru all gears just for practise, double clutching as well. dont realy need to heel it tho, just have left side of my foot on the edge of the brake pedal, and sway my foot to the right to hit the accelarator seeing as the pedals are so close together