DRFT33

I know this has been covered before, but I've added pictures to help. - Gather all parts that you need. Fuel pump, fuel filter (highly recommended to replace), fuel hose and EFI clamps. - Remove all boot trims and whatever else you have in your boot. - Disconnect the negative cable on your battery. - To the right of the battery there is the cover to access your fuel pump. - Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the cover to reveal the top of the fuel pump housing. - Use some pliers to remove the hose clamp and disconnect the hose on the left. Use your fingers and pinch the fittings to disconnect the other two hoses on the right (They are a little tight). - Using a screwdriver and hammer, carefully tap the collar anti-clockwise to remove. - Lift the upper section of the fuel pump housing and then remove the remaining cradle off the bracket. - Your about half way there! - Disconnect the wiring off the fuel pump using an 8mm socket and a Phillips head screwdriver. - Loosen the hose clamps and remove fuel pump and rubber from cradle. - Install a new section of hose about 5-7cm long with a new hose clamp on the cradle to the pump. - Install a new section of hose about 50cm long with new hose clamps on the top cover to cradle. - Using a hack saw, cut off the end of the cradle and file until you have a smooth finish on the metal. - Install new Bosch fuel pump and take note of the position where it needs to be. - Your almost there! Cut off old terminals on wiring and use about 7cm of new wiring to solder on new terminals. - Install wiring and there you have it. At this stage, it would be a good idea to use some parts cleaner to clean the top cover. - Start by inserting the fuel pump and cradle section back into the tank. - Using a torch and some skill, install the cradle back onto the bracket. (Double check that it is installed correctly). - Reinstall your hoses. - Reinstall the collar. Use rubber grease on the collar and also rub some of the fuel pump O-Ring. - Plug it all in, reinstall the cover with 4 10mm bolts, reinstall all boot trims and reconnect the battery. - Replace your fuel filter (No pictures it is straight forward). - Start your car and everything should be perfect

Cheers Ryan for giving us a hand with the clutch on Saturday... much appreciated. I would have done it myself but the box is heavy as even with the trans stand.

The first step to take is probably check if there is any air-con refrigerant in the system. If there isn't, well the compressor clutch will not kick in. Regas with dye and check for leaks and go from there. boost problem -> actuator? maybe.

Thinking about selling my rims! Volk Racing 18x8 +30 and 18x9.5 +40 in white. The lips have been machined and there is no gutter rash - Very good condition. Fronts are wrapped in Fulda Excelero 225s with 95% tread remaining. Rears are wrapped in Firenza 245s with 60% tread remaining. Looking at $1700 or make me an offer. (Disregard those NSW plates - located in SA, plates have since been changed!)

Hey Wayne Thanks and was a pleasure to buy the car! Its still on its way to to Adelaide so hopefully will see it tues or wed. Can't wait and don't worry, I'll look after her well. Thumbs up for the NSW SAU guys meeting down at central coast - seem like a real good bunch of people!

WTB: RB25det engine to suit rebuild. Either complete or head/block seperate.

Will only calibrate speed. RPM is measured elsewhere and doesn't really have anything to do with the gearbox. RPM is to do with your engine speed.

u can get one of these adapters. about $300 tho.

have u tried adjusting your timing? i did and it fixed my high rev misfire.

i've called up regency about this issue already, as thats my plans for my R32. Basically, as said above, u need to have the brake upgrade and everything standard. Then you go and fill out a form there, they inspect it and they change your engine number on your rego. From what i gather your don't need it engineered, but you do want a clean job. you shouldn't be defected for this.

hey skyblue, sorry not interested, nice ute tho. thanks for the offer.

Scandyflick, you're more than welcome to come have a look at it this weekend. As for the repair on the bottom rad support, i'm estimating around $300. it just needs to be straightened out. I've replied to your PM. Sorry Maxx, i'm after a cheaper car + cash.

OK last price... best offer over $6500 and its yours.

i have a spare coil pack cover... i think its from a series 2... has a mount at the rear of the cover. anyway let me know if u still need it

hey sorry not really after a celsior and also WA is a little too far away. thanks for the offer.

price now reduced to $8800... thats one of the cheapest!!!! it needs to go to a new home soon. still willing to trade for a car of interest (even some sort of honda) and $$$... car has had service/inspection - there is minor damage to the front radiator support (underneath), easily fixed and theres no chassis damage.

price drop from $10500 to $9900 ONO car is going to be serviced this week!

1991 Toyota Soarer 4.0L V8 Automatic 158,000kms - Full Leather - Touchscreen TV - 7 speaker sound including sub - 12 CD stacker - Sunroof - Airbag suspension - Electric seats, windows and mirrors - Cruise control The car is silver in colour and overall in good condition! Interior is in pretty good condition. Just a few common things on soarers such as vents etc has crack. No rips in the leather. Mechanically there is nothing wrong, the engine still runs smooth, plenty of power and was mainly highway kms. Petrol consumption is pretty good, I average 10-12L per 100km (from the onboard computer). The car has pretty much full options except for a couple of things. It is completely unmodified. I can give you guides to installing a DVD player for the TV and also to lower the suspension etc. I've had many turbo cars and thought would be nice to drive a luxo car around for while, but now its time to sell so that i can move on to my next project car. PRICE: BEST OFFER OVER $6500 or swap for car of interest! contact via PM or 0431 421 660 after 5pm Car currently has VIC registration but only requires an ID check at Regency and some new plates! It will pass easily anyway because it is completely standard. Thanks! -edit- originally thought it was a 1994 with compliance in 1998 (as on the comp. plates). however checked VIN and found it was a 1991 model.

Hey Brad! Sent you an email. Cheers. Richie

spotted a grey skyline crashed in the bushes this mornin on churchill road... hopefully nobody from sau! there wasn't anyone there with the car except for a couple of cops...

Hey mate! I'm interested in the car... I'm from adelaide but will be going to melb next weekend and will be looking at some cars up there. Which suburb are u in? I'll be staying in Dandenong. Also do you have all stock parts such as steering wheel and airbox? Only because to get it back to adelaide and registered need an inspection. And also what year is it?

Is it auto or manual?

car has been SOLD at bargain price.........

sorry no because i don't have the stock bonnet. Car was dyno tested today Power - 146.3kW@166KPH Torque - 366.8NM@134KPH at max 6PSI in third gear 1:1 pretty good for a stock standard engine, air/fuel mixtures were good and will be able to easily handle more boost with suitable mods.

Still for sale!!!!!! dropped to $14900 negotiable without 19s. Car is gettin dyno tested tomorrow... and serviced this week.